The fence sits underneath the templates and is used to register the jig against the back of the box and securely clamp the jig to the box. The Soss 203 requires a 1/8” space between the back of the hinge and the back of the box. Since the hinge is 1/2”, the centerline of the hinge must be 3/8” from the back. It is important that the fence be square to the template otherwise the hinges, hence the box lid, will be crooked. I cut a piece of 3/4” plywood about the widt...
I wonder if the Mona Lisa’s smile was a cover up for a mistake. Seems like I’ve gotten pretty good at making mistakes in the shop. Hopefully, I’ve gotten just as good at fixing them. It wasn’t the Mortise Pal’s fault. I was getting so wrapped up in my photo journalism that I made a common mistake. I lined the centerline of the jig with the wrong line on the target! As you can see from the pictures, instead of lining the jig up on the center I lined it up ...
While I still plan to do a series on my experiences with various box hinges, I thought I’d go ahead and post how I installed Soss hinges on the current string box project. I plan to include the usual step-by-step process, but I think most folks will get the idea from these pictures. The sides of this box are a little over 3/4” wide so I’m using the Soss 203 hinges which are 1/2” X 1 3/4. These hinges require eight, count ‘em, eight! mortises. And they all h...
Here’s where the magic happens. After all the milling and ripping and glueing and re-sawing, we finally get to see if we can really match the lines all around the box. Sure we can. After planing each piece to thickness and ensuring the ends are square, open them up in a book-match. Draw a chalk line at the approximate width of each of the boxes’ ends from opposite ends (this is just to identify the parts). The pictures below explain it better than I can in words. I like to l...
Last blog was too long on words. Pictures tell the whole story. Mark the wood with triangles to keep them aligned, resaw a little over the thickness you desire, run each through the planer at the same thickness and bookmatch the parts. Note: if you are using real thick wood like 8/4, you can slice four pieces and have enough material for two boxes.
I’ve prepped over thirty pictures so far so I tried to break them up into logical groups. The first part is to laminate the strings. For this box I’m using the re-saw technique and start with a thick piece of wenge (8/4) milled flat and square. I re-sawed some strips of maple and ran them through the drum sander for thickness and to remove any larger saw marks. I made a single rip cut on the wenge with a gentle random curve on the bandsaw and glued a thin strip of maple in bet...
This summer’s projects have been boxes. Lots and lots of boxes. Somewhere along the way I got the idea of combining the wrapping technique with a simple inlay to see how hard it would be to align the lines all around the box. In other words, at the corners. Turns out it is not that hard to do. So I’ve been experimenting. I’ve posted the first completed boxes as a Project and will post more upon completion. The photos below give an overview of this technique and the pi...
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