Found that the honing guide that I use for plane blades and chisels doesn’t work on stokeshave blades. The blade from my Stanley no. 151 is too short to get the required 25° angle. Luckily, I had a short piece of steel flat bar with a hole drilled earlier at the right place. I cut it to make a table saw splitter, but ended up using another piece. The blade gave nice shavings when I learned what the right blade depth was…
Moving forward with the saw restoration.. The original tote on this saw is usable but ugly and pretty beat up so a new one is in order. TGIAG to the rescue! I have some slightly thicker than 4/4 African Mahogany on hand and it should make for a fine looking handle so why the heck not. The next few pics will be a “well duh” series for some of you but I have seen some questions asked around the forums about dimensioning wood with handplanes and I figured this was as go...
Hand Tool Journey #41: Stanley SW #358 Miter Box Restoration #7... Cleaned Up The Saw Plate.. Is This Worth Saving?
I am going to present this question to the group. Saw restoration and sharpening is not an area I have really spent much time in yet so I am far from an expert. So I ask is this saw plate worth trying to sharpen up or should I explore other options? I WOULD like to use the original plate if it is at all usable but like I said.. I’m hoping some folks who are much more knowledgeable on the subject will help me out here. First some before pics… Post Evaporust.. ...
Hand Tool Journey #40: Stanley SW #358 Miter Box Restoration #6... Assembly! Long Winded and A Ton of Pics..
(Inhales deeply) OK, lets get this going. Warning up front to anyone NOT curious about how one of these goes together you might want to scroll a bit to get to the money shots otherwise hang in there we have a bit to go over first. First things first here are what I typically use in any tool restoration during assembly. Nearly all of these deal with corrosion prevention in some form or another and that folks is the name of the game from this point on. We just spent a lot of sweat equi...
I might have had time today to completely assemble this but I wouldn’t have had time to take the detailed assembly pics I promised. That said there were a couple of things left to do pre-assembly that I was able to take care of this morning. I am hoping for an assembly day tomorrow so stay tuned for that. The first thing on tap this morning was to get my bench and parts/supplies organized for tomorrow. I got out only this boxes parts ao it brings the part count down a bit. ...
I finally got off my arse and bagged up and labeled all the parts to clear off the bench top. Next up was to make a new wooden deck for the box. 1/2” Red Oak again. No clue what the old board is but it’s brittle as all hell now so it’s toast. And I got this far yesterday when 1/4 of the way through drilling the curved corners the board split along the grain…. Had to start from scratch with a new board. Oh well. Got to spend some time at the wood s...
Well it took a week to get to it but I finally have everything clean and ready for masking and paint. First up was the main base it’s self. This thing was too rusty for the Citristrip to even make a dent in but it did clean up with a steel wire wheel and my angle grinder well enough. Any left over rust spots (mostly in those hard to get to crevasses) will get treated with some Rustoleum rust reformer before paint just to avoid any cancer from forming and spreading. The p...
By Joshua Farnsworth (Writer at WoodAndShop.com) I shot the above Video at Roy Underhill’s Woodwright’s School (original blog post is here). Bill Anderson shows how to properly use a Stanley 45 Combination Plane to cut a simple groove for use in a dovetail box or many other uses. Bill shows the basic parts of the combination plane and how to adjust them. You’ll learn how to hold the Stanley 45 combination plane to get a consistent groove, and how to avoid misshaped grooves...
I have a couple of styles of Stanley Bit Gauges that I thought may be of interest to folks using auger bits. These are Stanley #47 and #49 Bit Gauges. Essentially they attach to your auger bit and indicate when to stop drilling. The #47 has a spring that flexes when it reaches the desired depth. The #49 has a couple of wings and will not let you drill any further. Keep your eyes open for these guys if you happen to be out rust hunting… Stanley #47 Bit Gauge ...
A year ago I cleaned up my two planes. One was a Stanley block plane. The other was an Ace Hardrware knock-off that I had purchased a few years ago. They cleaned up well and are usable planes. After reading information here and on other sites I decided I should really try to find a used Stanley #5. The knock-off was similar to a #4. I thought this would be enough to equip my shop for my needs. I started cruising CL and Ebay. My wife began wondering why I had a desire to walk through ant...
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