Time to install the drawer pulls. My hardware requires two holes drilled 3” on center.-----I use this little jig to make sure all the holes are aligned correctly. It is a full-sized pattern, and works for the 6” and 8” drawers. I use Scott Collins “No Math” method to layout the pull location, which is discussed further in my dresser blog here… http://lumberjocks.com/pintodeluxe/blog/34346-----I register the left edge of the drawer against the stop on ...
This is the project I am finishing up. The backsplash was nixed due to a Lumberjocks poll here…http://lumberjocks.com/topics/50516 The tribe has spoken. -----So it will actually look like this…-----When spraying shellac on the drawers, I masked the cedar drawer bottoms to maintain the nice aroma.-----Nightstand stained and lacquered. -----After the lacquer cures for at least 24 hours, I wax the cabinet with Howard’s walnut wax. -----I use a scrap of drawer front stock ...
This is the nightstand project…-----Panel glueup for the tops. I do my glueups in two stages. First I glue two pairs of boards together to make planks. Then I send them through the planer while they are still narrow enough to fit. Finally I glue these two planks together to make a panel. I describe flat panel construction in detail in my dresser blog… http://lumberjocks.com/pintodeluxe/blog/33797-----A pair of rough glueups complete. -----I made a template for the corbels, w...
This is the project at hand…-----Empty carcase ready to accept web frames.-----Installing lower web frame with biscuits in front, and dado in the rear. -----Web frames are glued into the dados. -----Notched corners fit neatly around legs. -----Checking that web frames are all in the same plane. -----Through mortise and tenon.-----1/4” straight bit.-----With a straight bit chucked in router #1, I hog out most of the waste for the dovetails. This step is optional, but I fi...
Here is the design for the nightstand….-----I set about notching stock for the web frames. I use a dado blade, however a bandsaw would work too. -----The web frames are joined with biscuits, and checked with a straightedge. -----Web frames and more web frames…------One or two of the joints needed a few passes with a block plane. -----I glued the lower front rail in place, connecting the two side panels. It’s amazing how much strength a through M&T joint has. ------...
Part 1 of my lathe station. From planing to finishing. In this series I build a dedicated stand for my bench top lathe. In this episode I plan out the project and start building the main box. SketchUp Plans http://www.theinternetwoodworker.com/downloads.html
Here is a sketch of the nightstand I am working on. It features one 6” over two 8” drawers. -----Side panel components have been sanded, and the solid panels pre-stained. Now a final test fitting before gluing them up. The lumber is QSRO.-----A shallow groove in the legs will receive corbels. -----Side panels glued up. -----Front lower rails have been shaped at the router table, and finish sanded. Next up is the back panel and web frames.
[UPDATE: Scrap this idea, it doesn’t work. When I first tested the vibration was minimal but now it’s setting off an oscillation that makes it unworkable. Guess I will go back to over-complicating.] The motor mount I built was too low and allowed the pulley belt to rub the lathe frame. In the last entry I mentioned there were two solutions to the problem: 1: Create a raised platform for the motor that will bring it to the height of the lathe pulleys.2: Build a jackshaft that...
Credit where it’s due, I basically copied this guy’s stand except I modified the top to work with my lathe. I had literally a wheelbarrow load of scrap fir 2×4’s from another project so I used as many as I could. (Note: never build anything from fir 2×4’s, the wood is soft and brittle, every little bump is a dent and pieces kept flaking off at the slightest provocation.) Sorry, I have no in-progress pics. Once I get started I don’t like to stop ...
I recently Purchased the Heavy Duty Roller Stands from Rockler (the ones with the 3 rows of roller balls).I thought they were an absolute solid product and probably some of the best roller stands available but the tops were SO heavy, it was impossible to adjust their height in fine amounts. Since all of my equipment at the moment is at different heights, this was a problem. I wanted to add a type of crank mechanism that would allow the stands to function similarly to a screw jack.So I went...
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