I didn’t really listen and I should be spanked!!! I am now going to stain the sewing center. I knew I had to actually condition the wood because it is poplar. But instead of doing the 50/50 mix of shellac and denatured alcohol or as I read on a can of Zinsser Bulls Eye SealCoat (which is shellac) a 3 parts denatured alcohol to 2 parts SealCoat mix, I thought I save myself some time and just condition the poplar with MinWax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner (the yellow can – they also ...
My Journey As A Creative Designer - Woodworking and Beyond #453: (Have you heard?) The Bird is the Word
As I awoke this morning I couldn’t help but think that I made a good tactical move yesterday. Even though that above all things I wanted to stain in my bird ornaments, I made the choice to cut out the little skating ponds and get them ready to ship. Now I am the kind of girl that sometimes doesn’t look at the entire project. For example on the skating pond sets, I only seem to consider cutting the five characters on the scroll saw as the ‘work’ part of it. I tend...
I have been working on a pair of nightstands for a while now and I’ve been trying to sort out what stain to use on them. They are quartersawn white oak and reproduction Stickleys so I wanted a nice older look. I started digging around in magazines, books, online, etc… and I found some great resources – like Captain Skully's forum post. Unfortunately, viewing something over the net always makes it appear a bit “off” to me. So I decided that I needed to prototy...
OK this may be a really dumb question but here goes. Staining Baltic Birch Plywood. When you purchase it does it generally have some type of sealer on the surface. I just got finished cutting a fretwork clock out of baltic birch and staining it and it looks horrable. My only choice it to attempt to sand it and apply a different stain method. I generally get my wood from the local Rockler store but sometime purchase some from Lowes. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
I finished the Gingerbread Candle Tray set yesterday. It was near-done for the past couple of days, but I finished cutting and staining the little charms and doing the photography on it. I think it came out OK. It isn’t one of my most intricate projects, but I found that a lot of people are interested in it and I think it will be a nice and quick project to get done in time for the holidays. Here are the pictures of the finished holder: From SLD337 Gingerbread Candle Tray and Ch...
100 steps to a great finishI have written about finishing douglas fir before, but I keep getting lots of questions about it so here I go. Sand to 220. Get in the grooves. Making the washcoat to prevent blotching .. 90% Mineral Spirits Washcoat Part 2: 10% Boiled Linseed Oil Apply Washcoat with cloth. Inspecting the coat. If there are any sanding marks or glue spots this is the time to get them. Applying stain with brush. Clean off. Get into the grooves with a glue brus...
Ok so before I get into this I want to make the following three declarations: 1) I am not in any way in favour of using inexpensive (IE cheap) woods and disguising them as expensive (IE high quality) woods in projects. That is not my goal here. 2) I am not a professional woodworker, nor am I a professional finisher, so this is just my own experience as a hobbyist. 3) I am not a proponent of staining or colouring every wood that you finish; I am totally cool normally with leaving woo...
Finishing and finishingI have completed my TV stand and it came out better than I hoped. I learned a lot from this project and can’t wait to make my next piece of interior furniture. FinishingI wish I could say everything went off smoothly but I had a few problems finishing the project. One major problem was splotching, where one area stains dark than another. I also had a hard time learning to fill the wood. I tested about 12-15 different stains and dyes until I came across two of the...
From blotch controlIt seems one of the most difficult tasks for woodworkers is finding a stain and finish system that’s capable of giving consistent and durable results.For many years I had used nitrocellulose lacquer for my projects with appropriate oil and or water-based stains. One of the problems with lacquer isit is extremely volatile and subject to vaporize organic compounds that could be dangerous from a health perspective. With this in mind, I set out to try and adapt my syste...
We all have heard the saying “good things take time” and I am discovering how true that is while finishing my latest project. Yesterday I spent the bulk of my time doing the final sanding and applying mineral oil to the many pieces for my calendar project. As you saw from yesterday’s post, there really were a lot of pieces and it was a slow process. I actually made three sets of overlay pieces for the project. Two were of 1/8” maple and one was of 1/8” Ba...
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