I wanted to recreate this Jeff Jewitt finish from Fine Woodworking #157, however the article didn’t list which formula was used. I consulted with Jeff, and it was Transtint Brown Mohogany dye, followed by McCloskeys Walnut stain. McClosky no longer makes stain, but sold to Valspar / Cabot. ---So I set out to make a sample board to achieve the rich, dark color I was after. ---The top colors are stain only, the middle colors are dye first then stain, and the bottom color is dye only. ...
Up early, I got a little done this morning before work. I tested 2 stains from my small stock pile on some scrap poplar, the same stuff I used in this rolling base. That’s Minwax “Golden Pecan 245” on the left, and “Red Oak 215” on the right. The pecan is less saturated than the online sample. The red oak is much less red, and much more like chocolate, but I like how it makes the poplar sort of look like a hardwood. I’m tentatively going to use that ...
Today I’ll be staining some maple. The customer want a cherry finish. Not a new cherry wood look, but the old antique look with years patina. More like the stuff you’d find on the a showroom floor call “cherry finish”. As most of you know, maple doesn’t absorb stain very good, so to achieve a dark, rich finish is impossible with stain only. Several years ago, I standardize this finish for my customers and make to sample piece with the steps that need to be...
Well, here it goes…the long story. On my last tour to Iraq I was stationed at Balad AB, the largest FOB (Forward Operating Base) in the AOR (Area of Responsibility). I was in charge of a 110 person security team known as the FPs (Force Protection). To make a long military story short (since this is a woodworking site, not a military site), my team was responsible for the security of the entire base both inside and outside the wire, and a lot of stuff happened that made us a very tigh...
Hey guys, Just for a quick update. The cultures I attempted last time did actually work to some degree. Something grew inside the agar mix :pNo stain from the Ca culture yet and I don’t really expect any to happen. I also grew the accompanying yellow fungus, which actually develops rather agressively into the culture medium. Certainly a big white rot fungus there, Fomes Fomentarius probably, knowing that it was on the tree I took the infested bark from. For the next mushy hunting ...
I know dark colors are a bad idea in a dusty shop, but I just couldn’t resist their siren song. Time to go crash my boat on the rocks! I looked at the colors of the planer, and with the help of our office manager at my company, decided I wanted a black cabinet with a red drawer. I labored over my choices for an hour in Home Depot, and even had them unpack stock boxes to get some Minwax ‘blank’ stain so we could mix up some reds. I chose “Spice” and “Chin...
Here is how I finished the bookshelf in our now demolished spray booth.Hope you get a few pointers/tips from this and perhaps you have some advice for me.
Hey guys, So basically I had the chance to get back to my southern village a few days ago. Having some fine time to spend while my elbow was healing from an unfortunate accident at work, the first thing I did was to run into the woods to get to the previous Ca find spot. I can’t tell you how bad that thing was haunting me. Well, I didn’t get to measure things as I wanted to (next time!), and instead I merely kicked down all the trunks from a dead stump (not sure it’s t...
I will show you how to make your own stain.Using only boiled linseed oil, pigment, and mineral spirits. I will be using Earths Pigment Light Sienna and Natural Black You can order their $29 pigment kit from their website. I will be using Earths Pigment Light Sienna and Natural Black Introductory French Pigmenthttp://www.earthpigments.com/products/index.cfm?SubCat_id=9&product_id=133 To Make stain you will need the following products: Artist oil color tubes or powder pigm...
So here it is: the first attempt at determining the temperature at which the pigment produced by Chlorociboria vanishes. This is preliminary data (you never stress it enough!), furthermore testing will be needed to assess the exact way it happens within a seriously controlled setup. The pigment is stable up to 90°C, then it quickly starts to degrade. At around 110°C, half the pigment has lost its color. At 125°C, only 25% of the coloring remains. At 155°C, only 10% of the green is s...
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