After several hours of carving with my Dremel tool over the last two days, I completed the custom checkers for this project. This was my first attempt at wood carving and with 48 sides to carve, it was a bit tedious, but not too difficult. My skills improved a good deal by day two and I took some extra time to go back over the first day’s checkers and make sure they were all pretty consistent. I took some video of the carving process to post as a separate blog entry once I have...
Hi guys, So in an effort to gear up my lab stuff, I recently bought a cheap peristaltic pump on ebay to help extract xylindein faster. Relying on gravity sure works, but it’s damn slow. So I filled up a funnel with xylindein-stained sawdust, connected the output to the pump, set the other end of the pump above the funnel for a closed-loop circuit of sorts, dropped enough acetone to soak all the sawdust, and fired the pump for a few minutes. Wow, I gotta tell you, this modus operandi ...
The PlanSave the plaster, the upper cabinets, all millwork, and the windows (is that millwork). The douglas fir cabinets had been refaced in the long past. Could it be removed? Before The kitchen before… Upper cabinets are original with refacing and paint.. The evil laundry porch. Close up on laundry sink. Nice huh? Under the sink. That is my poor man’s possum proofin. My first homemade shelf. Good times. If I had a hammer… Demolition Time!!!! I demo ...
So, between TreeFrogFurniture.BlogSpot.com and Robert Lang’s book “More Shop Drawings for Craftsman Furniture”, I decided that the corner of our dining room could stand an accent table. TreeFrog has built two different styles, so I “borrowed” the plans for the one I liked (he posted them online) and made my first template. I’m going to wait to make the interior template until I have the shell complete. The angles make things a bit messy. Like Tre...
This is a versatile little cabinet in which you can store whatever your heart desires in it. The overall dimensions for this project is 21”w x 11 ¼”d x 13 ¼” h. Of course if you need something bigger than make it bigger, or to fit your needs. I am using Baltic Birch for mine but use whatever material you feel like using. As always if you have any questions email them to me at email@example.com.—http://blip.tv/file/4726686
<div> Click to play </div> Hello everyone, Been awhile. Here is a Small Audio Podcast about the Tater bin I’m going to be building for a Friend of mine. He is wanting a Tater bin Made from Pine and Stained with Cherry. He’s buying the Materials and hardware required ...
For our best pieces, we use sawn veneer. It is usually 10 time as expensive as sliced, but it is a better quality product. When the veneer is sliced, it is often steamed or heated and the shearing of the knife damage the structure of the wood. When the veneer is sawn, it is just like solid wood, just thinner. Patrick Edwards did a good blog entry on sawn veneer with a video of one of the last veneer sawing comapny, near Paris, Georges et Fils. To read the article it is here. An...
So here it is: the first attempt at determining the temperature at which the pigment produced by Chlorociboria vanishes. This is preliminary data (you never stress it enough!), furthermore testing will be needed to assess the exact way it happens within a seriously controlled setup. The pigment is stable up to 90°C, then it quickly starts to degrade. At around 110°C, half the pigment has lost its color. At 125°C, only 25% of the coloring remains. At 155°C, only 10% of the green is s...
The goal is to get a finish similar to this from groovyman6. Sample boads are rift sawn white oak, first dyed with Transtint Brown Mahogany, either at 1 to 32 dilution (two thinner bands) or at 1 to 15 (three thicker bands): (photo taken in the shade) After the dye dried, I lightly sanded the darker bands with either grit 600 (the top one) or 220 (the bottom one), then applied Minwax Tung Oil Finish per instructions and then, next day, one board was stained with Minwax Mahogany Gel S...
I just start a new project for my kids. As i have learned from my forefather, everytime i want to stain soft wood such as Birch, Maple… i have conditioning the wood first, then stain it. Last time i went to local store, they ran out of wood conditioner, the owner recommend me to use stain from JAR. He said that with JAR, there is no need to conditioner the wood, look like it is al-in-one sort of thing. Have anyone tryied this? please advise. Thank you very much. Always value your e...
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