This was a fun experimental project. I attempted to use a clothing dye as a stain to see what different colors I could create while still being able to see the grain pattern. I also laminated plywood pieces together to see what effect could be made with the different layers being visible. Check out the video to see the end results!
Staining the seat. As mentioned, I’m using a dark walnut gel stain. This is what it looks like before wiping it off.I actually really like the way this looks. If for some reason the finish turns out horribly, at least I know I can resort to a paint to get it to look like this. ....annnndd this is what it looks like after wiping it off. Once gain, I’m satisfied but by no means ecstatic. I opted not to use wood conditioner since it is a gel stain and gel stain sh...
Based on discussion with some of the woodworkers on /r/woodworking, I opted to forego the pre-stain conditioner. I went again and stained the entire back rest with the dark walnut gel stain. Doesn’t look like Dark Walnut on most of the pieces though, eh? This is because, as I mentioned before, all the wood was second-hard from a friend of a friend’s bookshelf. I’m not sure if he had stained it previously or it was just the natural aging of the wood, but the color of ...
Since this was my first foray into a proper finish ( the most I’ve done before is a spray lacquer finish ), I decided to make a test board. I put a bunch of test dowel plugs into it and broke it out into a bunch of different sections. I used Varathane Dark Walnut Gel Stain and Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner. Top row is 80 grit, middle row is 150 grit, bottom row is 220 grit. Left to right columns are 2 minute rest time, 4 minute rest time, 6 minute rest time, 8 minute rest tim...
Woodworking I am fairly comfortable with. All this new technology stuff, I am not. This is my first blog entry…ever….anywhere. I have been a member here and on a few other forums (of varying interests) for a number of years but I’ve never been a “contributor” in any real way. My wife (whom I love DEARLY) recently suggested that I start “getting my name out there” in an attempt to possibly start a business (albeit small and part time) so that people c...
Putting the finish on my Nautilus Shell project today. Jullie helped to design the base for the shell to sit on. Should be able to post pictures of my first Lumberjocks project later this week.
Have tried two wood stains from Minwax on a scrap piece of walnut: “special walnut” and “golden oak”. I guess they may differ on other wood species or maybe they age differently, but right now look exactly the same after a week or so on walnut. After trying a few options for edges, I selected a simple 1/8” roundover. Anyway, I routed grooves for a miter bolt on both glue-ups, stained them and will apply Waterlox tomorrow. The stained ...
With Christmas right around the corner I had to try to finish this wine rack in the middle of a couple of other projects going on. I got it finished though, ahead of schedule so that is always good. Check out the video here.
For our best pieces, we use sawn veneer. It is usually 10 time as expensive as sliced, but it is a better quality product. When the veneer is sliced, it is often steamed or heated and the shearing of the knife damage the structure of the wood. When the veneer is sawn, it is just like solid wood, just thinner. Patrick Edwards did a good blog entry on sawn veneer with a video of one of the last veneer sawing comapny, near Paris, Georges et Fils. To read the article it is here. An...
I currently use Sikkens Cetol Plus stains and Benjamin Moore Paints for the wood garage doors and wood entry doors I make.I like the products but they are softer products which makes it hard to ship when ABF comes to pick them up. Even after I let them dry for 2 days I still get random shipments where there are shipping impressions in the finish. I’ve talked to Hirshfields and other paint sources and they say these finishes are great, but not the best for a production facility.Does anyo...
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