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Woodworking blog entries tagged with 'stain'

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View TimBridge's profile

Reclaimed Pine All-Weather Morris Chair #11: Staining The Seat

05-24-2014 10:45 PM by TimBridge | 0 comments »

Staining the seat. As mentioned, I’m using a dark walnut gel stain. This is what it looks like before wiping it off.I actually really like the way this looks. If for some reason the finish turns out horribly, at least I know I can resort to a paint to get it to look like this. ....annnndd this is what it looks like after wiping it off. Once gain, I’m satisfied but by no means ecstatic. I opted not to use wood conditioner since it is a gel stain and gel stain sh...

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View TimBridge's profile

Reclaimed Pine All-Weather Morris Chair #10: Staining the Back Rest

05-24-2014 10:40 PM by TimBridge | 2 comments »

Based on discussion with some of the woodworkers on /r/woodworking, I opted to forego the pre-stain conditioner. I went again and stained the entire back rest with the dark walnut gel stain. Doesn’t look like Dark Walnut on most of the pieces though, eh? This is because, as I mentioned before, all the wood was second-hard from a friend of a friend’s bookshelf. I’m not sure if he had stained it previously or it was just the natural aging of the wood, but the color of ...

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View TimBridge's profile

Reclaimed Pine All-Weather Morris Chair #9: Finish Test Palette

05-24-2014 10:36 PM by TimBridge | 0 comments »

Since this was my first foray into a proper finish ( the most I’ve done before is a spray lacquer finish ), I decided to make a test board. I put a bunch of test dowel plugs into it and broke it out into a bunch of different sections. I used Varathane Dark Walnut Gel Stain and Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner. Top row is 80 grit, middle row is 150 grit, bottom row is 220 grit. Left to right columns are 2 minute rest time, 4 minute rest time, 6 minute rest time, 8 minute rest tim...

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View TexasOak's profile

Stain Experimentation #1: Attempt #1 - Steel Wool and Vinegar

04-10-2014 10:59 PM by TexasOak | 16 comments »

Woodworking I am fairly comfortable with. All this new technology stuff, I am not. This is my first blog entry…ever….anywhere. I have been a member here and on a few other forums (of varying interests) for a number of years but I’ve never been a “contributor” in any real way. My wife (whom I love DEARLY) recently suggested that I start “getting my name out there” in an attempt to possibly start a business (albeit small and part time) so that people c...

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View ChurchClown's profile

Nautilus Shells

03-05-2014 01:10 AM by ChurchClown | 1 comment »

Putting the finish on my Nautilus Shell project today. Jullie helped to design the base for the shell to sit on. Should be able to post pictures of my first Lumberjocks project later this week.

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View harum's profile

Walnut kitchen countertop #6: applying finish

02-14-2014 01:36 AM by harum | 0 comments »

Have tried two wood stains from Minwax on a scrap piece of walnut: “special walnut” and “golden oak”. I guess they may differ on other wood species or maybe they age differently, but right now look exactly the same after a week or so on walnut. After trying a few options for edges, I selected a simple 1/8” roundover. Anyway, I routed grooves for a miter bolt on both glue-ups, stained them and will apply Waterlox tomorrow. The stained ...

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View A Slice of Wood Workshop's profile

Pallet Made Wine Rack #2: The final product

12-07-2013 02:04 PM by A Slice of Wood Workshop | 2 comments »

With Christmas right around the corner I had to try to finish this wine rack in the middle of a couple of other projects going on. I got it finished though, ahead of schedule so that is always good. Check out the video here.

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View Patricelejeune's profile

Treasure Box - Series #2 - Post #6: Sawing and Dying Veneer

08-21-2013 06:33 PM by Patricelejeune | 4 comments »

For our best pieces, we use sawn veneer. It is usually 10 time as expensive as sliced, but it is a better quality product. When the veneer is sliced, it is often steamed or heated and the shearing of the knife damage the structure of the wood. When the veneer is sawn, it is just like solid wood, just thinner. Patrick Edwards did a good blog entry on sawn veneer with a video of one of the last veneer sawing comapny, near Paris, Georges et Fils. To read the article it is here. An...

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View woodengaragedoorguy's profile

What are the best stains and paints for a manufacturing company to use on wood garage/entry doors?

08-13-2013 03:43 PM by woodengaragedoorguy | 1 comment »

I currently use Sikkens Cetol Plus stains and Benjamin Moore Paints for the wood garage doors and wood entry doors I make.I like the products but they are softer products which makes it hard to ship when ABF comes to pick them up. Even after I let them dry for 2 days I still get random shipments where there are shipping impressions in the finish. I’ve talked to Hirshfields and other paint sources and they say these finishes are great, but not the best for a production facility.Does anyo...

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View woodengaragedoorguy's profile

How do you remove DAP acrylic caulking on a stained wood garage door without damaging the finish?

08-13-2013 03:38 PM by woodengaragedoorguy | 1 comment »

I have a few wooden garage doors where I outsourced the finishing. They applied 3 coats SIkkens stain and the doors looks great BUT, when they applied a bead of the DAP acrylic caulking “Alex Plus” along the sides of boards helping keep water out they smeared it in large areas where it shouldn’t be. Does anyone know a good way to remove this caulking from the newly stained wood door without compromising the finish when removing it?

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