I thought that this new YouTube video we did on split-cutting and pare-cutting tenons rather than sawing them would help others to experience an alternative that works really well on most any wood type. I have done it this way for decades now and just realised that I hadn’t shared it as widely as I would like to. Try it in any wood you like and see how it works for you. Some woods, Sapele, ebony, mesquite and such, may not always split straight, but it shows how to cross-grain pare as a...
I finally got some shop time this weekend and had a chance to complete my leg vise. After my last building session, I had left it basically functional, but lacking a couple bells and whistles to make it really nice. The first addition was a guide wheel on the underside of the parallel guide. I bought another plastic wheel from Woodcraft and mounted it below the guide. It looks like it could become an ankle biter, but I haven’t run into any problems yet. It’s only pock...
Previously, I had run out of time to complete the tail vise on my workbench: This weekend I finally got the time to remedy that situation. I started off by routing the dog holes in one of the boards, then gluing up the leg vise block. The dog holes are spaced at 3” for versatility. Then I needed to figure out what to remove for the various pieces of the vise hardware. Some time was spent with the adjustable square to figure out the recess locations. Note: the measureme...
I’m sure there are those of you interested in how much this thing weighs and (more importantly) how much it cost to build. A quick volume estimate puts the total amount of wood at ~5 cubic feet. Considering an average specific gravity of about 0.60 (range for SYP is 0.54 – 0.65, and the hickory is more than that), the weight is: (5 cu. ft.)(62.4 lbs/cu. ft.)(0.60) = 187 lbs So, the wood alone is about 190 lbs. Factor in the weight of the vise hardware and the many metal...
I got a bit more time to work on my tabletop today and it is coming along! I think that the longest part remaining is going to be cutting the butterfly dovetails to keep the cracks from spreading. One edge on the bottom is a mess. It will take some time, but I plan on at least 100 years of service out of a piece of furniture when I build, so it will be worth it. I want to keep away from straight lines in this piece, so I used a curve to draw the edges of the table. The curve is adju...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1294 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 101 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- Just for Fun... - 82 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- The Craftsman's Path - 67 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1316 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 388 entries
- dbhost - 380 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 302 entries
- Martin Sojka - 297 entries
- William - 258 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- mafe - 219 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 188 entries
- Rustic - 185 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- shipwright - 175 entries
- PurpLev - 163 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 163 entries
- stefang - 151 entries