I have finally found the time to get back to making videos. Seems like it has been over a year. Feels good to be able to share again: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLjRwVZZffCDTQsUXXnzznPCh5GxPksNb6
I just got thru making a Guitar stand and after sanding I would like to get all of the dust off of it. I don’t want all the fine dust to ruin the finish and I heard that either Acetone or Mineral Spirits can be used to wipe down the project with a rag. Has anyone used this method or know if this is a good process.
First I work on making the “pillars” for the architectural details in the front of the hutch. Then I carve the “foundations” for the pillars with a chisel. I cut the top to size, and using the router table, I form the decorative edge. Again, I use a router to cut the groove for the inlay, glue the inlay in, flush them to the surface as with the drawers and attach the top. I also show how I fix a pretty big mistake when I was cutting the inlay. As always, I welcome your questions and commen...
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All right! Last time I was done with the marquetry and I had done the mastic on them. I glued them down with Hide Glue and cleaned with called water the paper that hold the pieces from the front with Hot Hide Glue. When all the paper is gone with just cold water, I use one of those green scrubs to clean of the rest of the glue. As there is never a project without at least one f**k up, one of my marquetry panel did slide during veneering. Fortunately, the use of...
Wood prep before finishing The secret to perfect finish is proper sanding of your project. All surfaces should be clean and free from all dirt and oils. Prep sanding is done with progressively finer grits. On unfinished wood, prepare the surface by using medium grit paper first, and then progress to finer grades. With most raw woods, if you are hand sanding, start sanding in the direction of the grain using a #100-150 grit paper before staining and work up to #220 grit paper. You can make ...
In this video, I start by selecting some beautiful figured crotch walnut for the drawer fronts. I resaw the board and then bookmatch the pieces so the “flame” of the figure radiates out from the center of the drawers. I also spend some time cutting and installing inlay in the drawer fronts, build the 6 drawers and then fit them to the openings. As always, I welcome your questions and comments! http://youtu.be/qRlSB-sJtyo
Hello all. Started a YouTube channel a week ago. I have posted five videos so far. Check them out and let me know how you like them. If you like the videos please subscribe to my channel. By subscribing you will be notified when ever a new video is posted. Thanks in advance for your support. Here is a link to my channel woodworker 631. www.youtube.com/channel/UC7UhNmNfkcCZQxuOuKU9PJg
A while back, I put together a set of links of random finishing topics which I posted in my blog, called Finishing Tips #5: Finishing tips #5. One of the links listed coved the topic of Chemical-Ebonizing as I saw an interest from some concerning the procedure, so this is the time to single out that process. This process does not use dye, ink or paint, and can be carried out quite easily. As a matter of formality follow proper safety precautions such as wearing safety glasses, hand prot...
Almost any finishing product can be applied over any other as long as the “other finish” is dry and the product you’re brushing doesn’t dissolve and smudge the existing. For example: Let’s for arguments sake you are not using spray equipment and that you have made up and applied a water based PVA blotch controller as describe in my previous article Preventing Blotching Using A Wash Coat 1 to a cherry surface. You then apply a water-soluble dye for color and let it dry completely. At ...
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