This project is half finished – Literally I mean. I figured since I’ll be working on the drawers, and the toolcart is in the basement it’ll get dirty, and oily finger marks might penetrate the wood and no sanding in the world will take those out, so I decided to finish the cabinet and protect it from the ‘elements’ around…. and boy did I get struck out by one of those elements… but more about that later. And so I gave the cabinet a good sanding wit...
Greetings all, Wanted to post a little about the recent project. It’s not done yet – but wanted to go over some details here. First: Project is an early 1900’s dining room table. Needed some repair work and needed two leaves built since the old ones were not original and not well done. Client wanted me to refinish the entire table as well. He also wanted a color match. I decided to do the leaves first so I could do the color match before I stripped the whole thing. ...
More on oak I first worked with red oak in the Texas Hill Country back in 1987. At least that was the first time I knew of red oak as distinct from English oak. Whereas I love English and European oaks American red oak is not my favourite wood to work with and it’s not the prettiest, but it’s used extensively for kitchen and bathroom cabinets throughout the USA and many European countries too. Red oak is known for its hard and heavy heartwood that has substantial strength ...
Bought the knife blanks on eBay. Very thin and very sharp .. Cut fast and easy on my band saw with a new 1/4” blade. Finish is Seedlac shellac Good way to spend a few hours in the shop.
I finally got back to doing some woodworking yesterday. I had finished drawing this pattern up last week and got it cut out, but it seemed that I was in several other directions the past several days and it was kind of woven in between all the other things I was doing. It is a simple design by my own standards, and I had mixed feelings about it. I find however that every design doesn’t have to be complex to be successful, and I think it will have a wide appeal. After seeing it fin...
I am pretty much done with the construction of the box itself. I had left the pins extra long and needed to trim them off, which is better then leaving them extra short and um… oh shoot. After some trimming and cleaning up the joints today I drilled and installed the hinges for the doors. I used SOSS model 100 hinges, 2 on each door which is good for material 1/2” thickness. I like those hinges, easy to install, fit well, and completely hidden for a nice clean look. You’l...
I mentioned it in the previous post and as I was working on the drawers I had the main carcass take the finish to make use of time. Mahogany much like Oak has large open pores. My finishing goal was more for practice than necessity, but I was aiming for an antique polished look – shiny outside. I knew I would have to fill in those pores if I want an even polished surface. So my plan was to start with a filler coat which I tried to concoct using dewaxed shellac and mahogany sanding sa...
I have heard countless times that you should never put polyurethane over waxed shellac. From books to magazine articles to forums to DVD’s, the message is always the same. Even the back of the shellac can itself says not to use polyurethane. Now I have always taken the “better safe than sorry” route, simply avoiding regular waxed shellac. But there have been so many occasions where I have heard of people accidentally using waxed shellac under polyurethane with no det...
Last night I started this blog. You can see Part 1 here: http://lumberjocks.com/davidroberts/blog/14843 I started with the footboard and almost screwed it up. I thought dousing it with stripper could melt the glue. I had been told that professional refinishers will sometimes not dip old pieces in fear the piece will fall apart. So I scrubbed with denatured alcohol and scraped and sanded for days. Then I got brave, bought a gallon of STRYPEEZE paint and varnish (and shellac) r...
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