My father gave me a wooden plane inherited from my grandpa’s stuff. I think it’s meant to be a scrub or jack plane: the mouth is pretty wide (about 4mm effective, the opening in the body itself being 10-11mm), and the edge is strongly cambered (the corners are 1.5mm back from the center of the camber, over a 54mm wide iron). For perspective, the body is 270mm long, 70mm high, and 73-74mm wide. It’s in pretty good condition but some work is needed to get it back to wor...
I’ve been in the market for a rabbet plane of some sort, and tried to buy a Stanley #78 from Patrick Leach earlier this month. I was too late to get the Stanley but Patrick sent me a moving fillister plane instead. It was made by “prolific plane maker” John Bell of Philadelphia circa 1845: It’s a beautiful piece of work, and tempts me to become a hand plane collector, but I really intended it to be a working plane. But it certainly wasn’t in working condit...
After recieving several requests, I’ve just added a post to my blog with tips that should take some of the stress and worry out of grinding. Here’s the link: http://jszcbf.wordpress.com/2011/12/16/secrets-of-happy-grinding/ I hope readers find it useful! Comments or questions are welcome, here or at my blog.
Cheap handy and ideal stropping compound. Take a Non Gel l toothpaste, keep it wet, apply to strop and have at it.
When I started working with bladed tools (chisels/planes/etc) I wanted a sharpening system that was on the cheap, small and storable and versatile. I chose to start with the scary sharp, and used sand papers from 100grit (rough shaping and cleaning nicked blades) to 2500 for final honing and green compound for touch ups. I added the Veritas MK-II honing guide and was using it for reshaping/resestting blades and honing them through the grits. While this method worked for the time I wanted s...
We Have a lot of storm damaged pecan trees here in the south. All you have to do is ask and its yours. Well you still got to cut it and load it but its free. Two trailer loads is about all my back can stand at one time. I have a small chainsaw mill that fits on my bar and I slab out chunks of wood. It’s also called a beam maker but you can cut any size slab you want to. All you have to do is move the board that the mill runs on over and screw it down. You also have to sharpen your chain...
The Humble Hand Brace - A Beginner's Guide to Restoring, Buying and Using #7: Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit
I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I’ve taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the ‘Using a Hand Brace’ part isn’t finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn’t much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn’t sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly. Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers ke...
Hope you enjoy this. By the way for those of you with slower internet connections I will be editing the video entries with written descriptions and pics so you can join the fun as well.
One thing I forgot to mention in the video is that you can grind a heavy camber into you jack plane by rocking the jig side to side during the grinding process (80grit and 220 stage). All your other tools can have straight edges but you need a good camber on you jack plane (something that lets you take 16th-8th cuts without the corners digging in) or it just wont do it’s job right. Sorry this took so long to get posted but editing video is taking more time and brainpower than I ca...
I’ll admit doing the sharpening section is a bit difficult for me. Not because I don’t have anything to share but because so many people have taken the time to produce some really great material on the subject. I thought, what original material can I add to the subject? The answer is none…sort of. For awhile I was not OK with that, until I saw something that put me right back on track. This picture in my copy of The Pine Furniture of Early New England set a firewor...
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