When I started working with bladed tools (chisels/planes/etc) I wanted a sharpening system that was on the cheap, small and storable and versatile. I chose to start with the scary sharp, and used sand papers from 100grit (rough shaping and cleaning nicked blades) to 2500 for final honing and green compound for touch ups. I added the Veritas MK-II honing guide and was using it for reshaping/resestting blades and honing them through the grits. While this method worked for the time I wanted s...
We Have a lot of storm damaged pecan trees here in the south. All you have to do is ask and its yours. Well you still got to cut it and load it but its free. Two trailer loads is about all my back can stand at one time. I have a small chainsaw mill that fits on my bar and I slab out chunks of wood. It’s also called a beam maker but you can cut any size slab you want to. All you have to do is move the board that the mill runs on over and screw it down. You also have to sharpen your chain...
The Humble Hand Brace - A Beginner's Guide to Restoring, Buying and Using #7: Part 7 - Sharpening an Auger Bit
I know I said that sharpening an auger bit would be part 8 of this blog series, but I’ve taken the liberty of bringing it forward since the ‘Using a Hand Brace’ part isn’t finished yet. After spending precious time restoring a hand brace, you will soon realize that it isn’t much use when drilling a hole if the auger bit you are using isn’t sharp. A sharp auger bit is a pleasure to use and cuts very quickly. Auger bits have evolved through the years. Manufacturers ke...
Hope you enjoy this. By the way for those of you with slower internet connections I will be editing the video entries with written descriptions and pics so you can join the fun as well.
One thing I forgot to mention in the video is that you can grind a heavy camber into you jack plane by rocking the jig side to side during the grinding process (80grit and 220 stage). All your other tools can have straight edges but you need a good camber on you jack plane (something that lets you take 16th-8th cuts without the corners digging in) or it just wont do it’s job right. Sorry this took so long to get posted but editing video is taking more time and brainpower than I ca...
I’ll admit doing the sharpening section is a bit difficult for me. Not because I don’t have anything to share but because so many people have taken the time to produce some really great material on the subject. I thought, what original material can I add to the subject? The answer is none…sort of. For awhile I was not OK with that, until I saw something that put me right back on track. This picture in my copy of The Pine Furniture of Early New England set a firewor...
Occasional Table Class (Hand Tool Build) #9: A brief bit about sharpening (dont worry more detail will come)
Now you have brought your tools home and maybe even gone to the effort of finding nice homes for them in your work space. You might even have started tuning them up and that good. The most important part of making a hand-tool work is getting and keeping the edge sharp. a planes sole can be flat as can be and still be a paperweight because the blade is dull or sharpened to a bad angle. In the next section of this class I would like cover how to sharpen all of the edged tools in the kit. ...
I saw Roy Underhill using one of these, and I thought it was the Bees Knees. I really wanted one. I have been searching ebay for an affordable one for quite sometime. I got this one for about $20 shipping included. Problem with cheap antiques is there is always gonna be missing parts, or unrepairable damage. This one was missing the blades and the screws to hold them. I figured I could buy new blades or cut them out of an old blade. So after arrival, I checked it out, and the fence mov...
Did a search on LJs for anyone using the venerable Stanley #78 and found nothing. Tonight in the shop I staged a bit of a dry run with the plane, making a ‘raised panel’ drawer bottom, and took some pictures along the way. First step was to check the iron. I bought the plane probably more than a year ago and my sharpening skills have improved since then, so it was a natural place to start because “sharp fixes everything” and I’m going to be cutting across the grain… The back had to be flat...
Edited 1-12-2014 Edited to add some notes for plane restoration and for further free hand instructions and clarifications. I use an 8” aluminum oxide wheel for my bench grinder. And yes I’ve put the cover back on. I can still burn a blade if I’m not reasonably careful, but It works fairly well. I like the 8” wheel because the hollow in the bevel is smaller, making for a stronger edge. I also made this bench guide similar to one in one of Krenov’s boo...
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