It is usually easier to drill any holes needed in the handle before you actually start shaping it. I just clamp it up and use the drill press to drill my holes…. the one in the shaft is usually drilled with a cordless drill. I like to use a 5/16 or larger threaded rod to join the handles to the shaft. Some people prefer wooden tenons and use it as part of the design with an exposed wedged tenon. You do have to carve or shape that tenon on the shaft unless you use a wooden dowel. I pref...
HEAR YE, HEAR YE!! Yes, Virginia we now have definitive proof that cavemen did enjoy scooping coffee! In fact cromagnun man (and woman) were the precursor to modern day Starbucks. In response to my recent posting of a neanderthal period coffee scoop, that was presented alongside a lovely model crafted by my L/J friend Jerry W, it was suggested that we begin an archelogical study, a challenge or showcase if you will of scoops and spoons. Because it was my shamelessly (or was it shamefacedl...
So the shaft portion of the cane has been selected. The over all height of the cane will be measured from the highest part of the handle to the tip of the shaft, so it is important to include all of these elements when sizing the cane, always remembering that is easier to cut the cane shorter than it is to make it longer. A normal measurement used for canes is typically from the floor to the bend of a person’s wrist. I like my canes a little taller and usually add 2-3 inches to the meas...
I set up a 40 mm Forstner bit in the drill press and using a sacrificial top and fence drilled the holes through which the 40 mm Dowel will pass.. Then a quick trip around the front edges with a 1/2 roundover bit in the router…Next time I post these brackets will be after they are installed on the bar….
This gravity-powered carousel is cut from poplar. The base is eight (8) inches in diameter and the horses are approximately four (4) inches wide by four (4) inches high as positioned. A single string passes through four (4) holes in the upper base plate and notches in the top of the center column. An oscillating motion results from rotating the upper base plate a turn or so (the strings wrap around the center column as the plate is rotated, and unwind when the plate is released). ...
Version 1.2a At this point I decided to get more “radical” in my design approach. I removed two of the cross rails (found out through experience that I didn’t need them anyway). Then I took the corner poles out of the flanges and put a “sleeve” on the side of my table for the corner poles to slide into (see photo below). Electrical conduit clamps work great for attaching the sleeves. This design also allowed me to adjust the height of the router sled in...
Movin’ right along, here’s Version 1.2 of my router planer. Because I’d made the router sled larger in order to accommodate larger pieces, I now needed to design something bigger for the sled to ride on. That’s when I came up with the idea of using longer piping for the end poles and cross rails (instead of the 12” pipes and the plywood cross rails shown in my first design). The photo below shows my first attempt (my “beta” version) at this new des...
The next design I came up with for my router planer was based loosely on some of the designs some fellow woodworkers had posted right here on Lumberjocks. The biggest design change was that I eliminated the sled pictured in the first photo in my last blog entry and used angle iron glides instead. Now here was a design I really took a liking to right away. This one allowed me to plane much larger pieces without fear of slipping off the edges of the runners because the router moves withi...
One of the things I found out very early on in my type of woodworking is that the slabs I use in my projects are often in dire need of planing. The problem with this is the thickness planer I had was not large enough to accommodate the width of most of these slabs. So, I began reviewing my old book and magazine libraries and surfing the Net to try and find something else that might meet the need for the type of work I planned to do. The results of my search were mixed. The very first opti...
I’ve cut and installed the corner and end blocks on the mold with just a dab of glue, so when I remove the mold, they release easily. These are what the ribs (sides) attach to. The blocks are made of willow because of its lightness and the added benefit that it is a fairly straight grained wood which makes cutting with the inside gouge an easy task. I then drew the points and top and bottom using the template. These are two different violins – reason for two templates. U...
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