Hi again, I had some material left over so have made a simple stand and have applied 4 coats of scandinavian oil, I plan on about another 4 coats and then beeswax. I’m still not brave enough to start drilling the finger holes!
Just some pics of shaping the flute, I have given it a blow and it has a really nice sound so I assume I must have got the nest right.
Ever since I bought a house, I’ve found myself doing too much yardwork, and not enough woodworking. I decided I could use yardwork as an excuse to woodwork. Rather than buy a $45 aluminum landscaping rake that I would probably only use 4 times in my life, I decided to use the old rake handle I found in the yard when the snow melted and a 2×4 to make my own. The first step was to remove the broken end of the existing handle: With this done, I started shaving off the end with m...
I have a couple of pics so far. I had to make a join in the timber so I dowelled it together at the block of the flute. I think the next step is to join the pieces together and start shaping the outside. I have heard it is a good idea to finish the inside of the SAC with a waterproof finish to stop any condensation getting in there and ruining the timber but am unsure if I should do this or not.
I did a project just because it looked like fun and it will help me learn for a coming project. This simple three legged stool out of some maple. “Three Legged Stool”: http://youtu.be/XN6VE7_SgMc Thanks so much for your support! Best RegardsChris
Some of you all asked for this, hope you are not sorry. You can look back to my projects to see my first which is a teardrop style. This will be a hourglass style made from walnut and maple.Started the day by drawing a plan then cutting and planing some walnut for the sides 1 7/8 by appx. 34 by .130 which will be .125 after sanding. Since this is a hourglass style you need a form for the steam bent sides I made the form from some 2×4’s glued side to side for the width and added a p...
More progress on my daughters bridal chest. Not too much left to do. A rabbeted lip covers the interface between cedar and maple at the top edge...One of the paper templates made to cut the curves in the skirt boards..The skirt boards cut, glued, and clamped in place. A cove molding will be mounted on the top of it later..Front skirt board .Side skirt board.Next will be to mount the top with a piano hinge.
I left the bark on the piece for my coffee table, but thought if it ever became a problem, I’d take it off. My understanding is that the bark is safe to keep on if the slab has been kiln dried. Air dried bark will have bugs. Since this is a gift, I’m taking the bark off from the beginning. The bark was pretty stubborn on this piece. i’d heard that some folks find an angle grinder handy to do this. I found it helpful, but not as helpful as a more sophisticated tool I ...
Several years ago I saw this ribbon design at segmenting.biz/inlayexample. I started by selecting the body of the design. In this case, padauk, yellow heart, aand hickory for three boards. Then I laminated the “ribbons” Then I cut 2” holes in the boards that make up the body of the design. The problem for a flat boarder(cutting board) was how to create the plugs without a center hole. The first idea was wood turning but this would require a massive square of exotic wood...
How to make Rod of AsclepiusStep 1A – See step (#1, #2)a) you can get a idea of where to put the “Snake” on the Staffthe longer the Staff the longer the “Snake” if you likeIf you like or 2 Snakes, but if you put two “Snakes” on it now becomes a Caduceus.b) see next step
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