Well, this just shot to the top of my wishlist. I’ve for at least 6 years now been specifically wishing for a really accurate, really quiet way to cut wood in my house after hours, when I can’t run power tools due to neighbors close by here in crowded LA. Scroll to the bottom to watch the video, or watch it on YouTube in higher quality. It’s a bit crazy-priced right now at ~$1200, but I’m sure that’ll come down. For now, I’m dreaming of a few addition...
It’s snowing here so Its out of the unheated shop and staying indoors – good time to make the blade clips. I chose to use stainless steel because I waned a material that won’t rust, be strong and capable of sustaining the blade tension, and I like the color (not a big fan of brass although I do like it as an accent in some cases). I ordered some 1/2” stainless steel rods from Speedymetals a while back for no real reason when I ordered some other material as it was o...
In part 12 we left our intrepid sawster (Is that a word? It is now.) feeling very sorry for himself. If you haven’t read part 12, you should read that first as this is a continuation of that post. Anyhow, you can’t keep a hand tool junkie down and suitably chastised by the saw gods, I picked myself up and worked the problem. I found out that I’d mistakenly thought the problem was what is known as ‘Cows and Calves’. However that is when the bottom of the gullet...
Shown in the video: This 13 minute video details the assembly of WOOD Magazine’s Universal Tablesaw Jig. The hardware kit shown in the video is from Schlabaugh & Sons, but you could easily make one yourself. The laser engraved table is nice, but you could reproduce that too. This woodworking video shows how to construct the kit and explains the basics of the how the Universal Tablesaw Jig operates. The laser engraved table accurately sets angles for miter cuts on the t...
THE FINALE Repairing the Lamb’s TongueSo in my last post I’d fixed the large chip below the bottom saw nut. Now it was time to fix the chip on the lambs tongue. I started by paring the chipped surface flat with a chisel, then I ripped a section from an off-cut of beech dowel. Before gluing it onto the handle, I slid a hotel card key into the kerf where the saw plate goes. This served two purposes. Firstly, it ensured that I didn’t get excess squeeze out in the kerf whic...
Just a quick post to share a lovely little gem that I’ve just finished restoring. This is an 8” dovetail saw, filed 15 TPI rip, made by Spear and Jackson sometime between 1915 and 1925 I think. There’s some minor pitting on both sides of the plate, but nothing that will affect the saw in use. It has a nice thin plate which is just what’s needed in a dovetail saw and a 2” depth of cut. The handle is English beech and very comfortable in the hand. It ...
Restoring a maebiki oga led me to delve into the history of this iconic saw. The maebiki oga (前挽き大鋸, literally ‘large’ saw, dubbed whaleback saw in english) holds an important place in Japan’s history. The oga saw was invented in Japan around 1590, and was in use for 400 years until Japan’s industrial revolution in the Meiji period, when it was superseded by mechanized sawmills. Predecessor saws were first imported from China around 1400 as steel became available. ...
I was looking for a design for a saw vise & found a real nice one on English eBay My Version of the Saw vice made from recycled mahogany recovered from a builders skip (dumpster).11 inches across the jaws, 17 inches top to bottom.Made from 4 & 1/4 inch by 1 & 3/8 inch mahogany with jaw linings of Ebony. Brass hinge and screws and a 10mm coach bolt to clamp jaws. One coat Danish oil.
This is a Warranted Superior 26” 4 tpi Rip. All are basic restores. Soak in evapo-rust. Wire-brush, sand and polish. All handles were sanded down to 500 grit and given a few coats of BLO. I have sharpened to 2 back saws. The rip saw will get sharpened once I get a few new files. This saw has some minor pitting on the blade. I cleaned it up and wire brushed it. I decided not to sand any further. The character is fine for my shop. I have a few more to do, so I made a soak...
Using my previously made SketchUp model I made a full sizes printed template using the following steps: 1. Setting up a Parallel view: The default view in SketchUp is “Perspective” which allows us to view things in 3D which looks ‘real’ due to the perspective view but for printing we want to be able to see the drawings in 2-D as if they were printed on a flat paper (which is what we about to do). In order to do this you need to go to the menus under “Camera...
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