Hi everyone, Welcome to another blog WITHOUT pipes. LOL. I’ve finally decided to take the walk down the saw sharpening path…have been putting it off for over a year! I fully expect a rocky beginning, but hope the trail eases out with time. Luckily, you LJ’s are full of information and love to share. My initial attempts at re-shaping teeth were an abomination to the craft due to lack of fresh reading, and NOT even knowing how to properly adjust my Veritas saw filing jig...
I have been in desperate need of a better way to hold my saws for sharpening. My old setup( two sticks of wood ~26 inches long which I would clamp onto saw plate and my vise) was simply not cutting it (sawing pun intended). I thought about purchasing vintage, but everyone always complained of bad vibrations, they are overpriced at antique shops, and I didn’t want to reposition my saw 4 times for full sized handsaws. I really liked Andy’s (Brit) design. It was economical, sturdy...
Some time ago I purchased a scroll saw off Craig’s List. The guy I bought it from also gave me some old hand saws. I got them home and cleaned them up a bit. Upon inspecting the teeth I realized that they needed some work. I decided to make a saw vise so I could sharpen them. I made a video of the techniques I used to build one that I found in the SketchUp 3D Warehouse. It’s made of some white oak that I had laying around. Perhaps you’ll be inspired to build one of your own....
In part 12 we left our intrepid sawster (Is that a word? It is now.) feeling very sorry for himself. If you haven’t read part 12, you should read that first as this is a continuation of that post. Anyhow, you can’t keep a hand tool junkie down and suitably chastised by the saw gods, I picked myself up and worked the problem. I found out that I’d mistakenly thought the problem was what is known as ‘Cows and Calves’. However that is when the bottom of the gullet...
So I thought I’d have a go at sharpening the 14 inch Cowell & Chapman backsaw (which is really a W. Tyzack, Sons & Turner). I’m going to file it 10.5 TPI rip with 9 degrees of rake and 5 degrees of fleam. I was going to add 5 degrees of slope as well, but I figure at this point I should just concentrate on filing the fleam correctly without complicating things further. Remember this one? This saw has an extra-heavy brass back and therefore there is a considerable am...
When I did my research, I found a number of good saw vise designs on the web. Some were simple, whilst others were more complex. The fundamental requirement of a saw vise is that it clamps a saw securely while you sharpen it, everything else is just icing. So it can be as simple as sandwiching the saw plate between two pieces of wood in a vise on your bench. Last December, I had the privilege of attending a saw sharpening class with Paul Sellers at Penrhyn Castle in North Wales. At the beginn...
So, I have now finished my first woodworking project! Don’t I feel special! Well, honestly, I don’t. I got sloppy and it shows on this. First, let me share the finished product. And the other side. That doesn’t look so bad. However, I got sloppy with the hole placement for the carriage bolts, figuring I’d have to plane them to match anyways. However, they were off by over a quarter of an inch on one side, but only 1/8th on the other. So, I planed t...
I’ve been wanting to add a few saws to the “toolbox.” And, rather than spend a bunch of dough, I thought that I’d try to refurbish some used backsaws. Though I will more than likely purchase a couple older Disston or other manufacturer tenon saws, in the 12” range, I though I’d try my hand at learning to sharpen on a couple 10” backsaws with turned handles that I already have. The only functional western style backsaw I own (aside from a flush cu...
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