I’d like to share these with everyone. I was able to snap some quick pictures today of my great grandfather’s tool chests. Both of these haven’t been touched much in the 50 years since he died, if it all. Judging by the layer of dust on the one with the two saws in the lid, i’d go with “not at all”. He sharpened handsaws in his older age. When he was younger, during the 20’s I believe, he worked at a shipyard in the Hudson Valley and as a house b...
... In a word – INDECISION. I’ve been thinking a lot about the best way to bring this Saw Talk blog series to a close and I’ve now decided that I’m going to do two more posts. In the next post I will share what I’ve learnt and some conclusions I’ve come to regarding sharpening saws. The final episode will take me a bit longer however, because I would like to post an in-depth video tutorial on saw sharpening. It will be quite long because I want to sho...
In part 12 we left our intrepid sawster (Is that a word? It is now.) feeling very sorry for himself. If you haven’t read part 12, you should read that first as this is a continuation of that post. Anyhow, you can’t keep a hand tool junkie down and suitably chastised by the saw gods, I picked myself up and worked the problem. I found out that I’d mistakenly thought the problem was what is known as ‘Cows and Calves’. However that is when the bottom of the gullet...
So I thought I’d have a go at sharpening the 14 inch Cowell & Chapman backsaw (which is really a W. Tyzack, Sons & Turner). I’m going to file it 10.5 TPI rip with 9 degrees of rake and 5 degrees of fleam. I was going to add 5 degrees of slope as well, but I figure at this point I should just concentrate on filing the fleam correctly without complicating things further. Remember this one? This saw has an extra-heavy brass back and therefore there is a considerable am...
I’ve been hesitating to post this entry on my Saw Talk blog series, basically because I don’t feel I’ve sharpened enough saws yet to make any recommendations to others. Instead, I thought I would take the opportunity to point you to some websites that I have found helpful. I have read most of the information available on the web on this subject and the links below are what I consider to be the best information for those new to sharpening. If you are serious about finding out about this subjec...
You know I said at the end of my last post that I’d post a picture of each saw and tell you how I was going to sharpen them and why? Well I lied. :-) The temptation of my restored backsaws, a saw vise and a bundle of saw files was just too much. I had to sharpen a saw, but which one? I thought about it for a while and settled on the little Spear & Jackson 8” Dovetail saw. Remember this one? I chose it for two reasons: For a dovetail saw, the depth of cut is quite big at 50mm. ...
When I did my research, I found a number of good saw vise designs on the web. Some were simple, whilst others were more complex. The fundamental requirement of a saw vise is that it clamps a saw securely while you sharpen it, everything else is just icing. So it can be as simple as sandwiching the saw plate between two pieces of wood in a vise on your bench. Last December, I had the privilege of attending a saw sharpening class with Paul Sellers at Penrhyn Castle in North Wales. At the beginn...
Well I guess it might as well be a good time to add this blog for I have the pics…...and the work is done. This old Disston Rancher rip saw has been in our family far before I was in our family….lol I can remember seeing it in our garage…..in our old log cabin home. I think back how lucky I have been to have spent my early years inside a real log cabin with all of these great things…the old garage…..and old tools! Of course as a kid….you think of i...
Before I can sharpen my backsaws, I need to make two things: a file holder for jointing the teeth and a saw vise. I was going to post both of these items together, but I think the file holder deserves its own post. A file holder is also useful for jointing hand scrapers. Some people don’t bother with a file holder and just hold the file with their hands, but it’s easier to keep the file perpendicular to the teeth using a holder with a fence that rides against the side of the plate. I’ve seen ...
Got back out to the shop and made the little guide blocks as seen in the Vintage Saws site tutorial. The use of the blocks really did help to maintain the rake angle and give you something to hold on to when filing. I continued to file all the teeth from one side until they all had a uniform shape. After the teeth were shaped, I set them using a standard set with a range of 4-12 TPI settings. I used a set similar to this one: I jointed lightly once again and filed t...
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