Unlike my previous blog posts, I intend to actually finish this series. Apologies to anyone who was left hanging until the project was posted on previous ones. Here goes nothing… These projects will be a bit more complicated than previous work that I’ve done. Additionally, these will be my first experience into working with Hot Hide Glue. I was able to pick up a Hold Heet glue pot and some hide glue from someone used for only $35. The first box that I will be making is going...
So far I have covered the basic case construction. Next we need to add the back panel and make the dust frame (or web frame) for the drawer. This will also serve as the installation point for the upper knife hinge. So, I started by gluing up a 1/4” panel of Sapele for the back, using the router bit as a guide for the final thickness. Next, we can cut the groove in the case pieces to accept the panel. I am using a 1/4” straight bit and cutting 3/16” deep. We don’t...
2 night ago, I was able to re-cut some of the letters in an effort to not have any broken pieces. The S and W continued to split on me, but I was able to get a nice M, A, and B so I will count it as a success. Last night was fairly productive. I was able to use my router with a 1/4” bit to cut a dado in the 4 sides of the frame to accept the plywood bottom. The 2 shorter sides had to be stopped dadoes so that they would be hidden when the frame is assembled. Once I cut the dad...
The saga continues. Spent the morning flattening the top of the Sapele panel, and trimming the ends square.Apologies, but I forgot to take a picture before my son and I flipped it over to work on the bottom side. Was sort of anticlimactic when top was flat. Not much to see in an unfinished flat 39X108” Sapele panel? Here is the bottom of the panel, with my caulk marks on what needs work in my next hand plane marathon. As I was shutting down and cleaning up due the 104 degree...
So, if you’re reading along, you know I have some so-so 2X4’s acclimating in my shop, that I have to turn into clamp cauls, so I can hopefully glue my table top together. Let the boards sit in the shop on stickers for 5 days to acclimate hoping they recover some. The twist and bow issues are reduced by half, but still makes for more work than I wanted. It’s summer in Arizona now, my open air garage shop was 100-105 last two afternoons. So I can only get a couple of h...
My mom approached me about doing something for my father for Father’s day. Only requirements were that it was to be something for their boat, and that it have the boat’s name on it. Other than that, I had complete creative freedom. I came up with the serving tray idea since they frequently prepare food down in the galley and have to bring it to the back deck for eating, and they currently just use some plastic serving tray. For the design, I decided that a prominent Compass ...
An update while I wait for glue to dry.Managed to get the second half of the table top glued today. Wasn’t hard, 3 boards glued in two glue ups, a few biscuits to keep it all aligned. More to come….
Not a fan of blogs as I don’t need any more computer time, but figured I’d make my first one (maybe my last).So where to start? SWMBO has been asking for a new kitchen table to replace an existing $100 press board & Formica piece of junk.I haven’t made much from Cherry in many years, and have been accumulating a few 4/4 boards from CL thinking, if I found some decent 8/4, then I would start the kitchen table. Several months ago, I learned that one of the local cabi...
This one was an exercise in lamination. 6 primary species of wood – western maple, red oak, sapele, cherry, birch and walnut. Two pieces of each species, each piece at a different thickness, and some random veneer thrown in between each primary wood piece, for a total of 23 layers. The sole is white oak. Glue is urea formaldehyde, so I could glue it up in one go. Didn’t think I could get it done with PVA. The bed is 45 degrees, and was my first double iron plane. I someho...
I don’t remember the order I built the rest of the planes I’ve made, so they’ll appear in no particular order. 3/4” shoulder plane. Sapele body and two-piece walnut wedge. Waterlox finish. This pic is a bit harshly lit, but it shows off some subtle figure in the sapele. Instead of a 4-piece lamination, this was done in two pieces. I drilled out the hole for the mouth area, then cut off one cheek. Hollowed out the cavity for the iron and wedge. Fit the wedge and then glued the cheek ...
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