LumberJocks

Woodworking blog entries tagged with 'rustic'

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View ruddhess's profile (online now)

Southern Yellow Pine Work Surface (workbench) #5: Getting Close to Full Width

02-22-2015 02:53 PM by ruddhess | 0 comments »

I ended up gluing inside my apartment where it was warmer. Ice and snowoutside. It is wide enough now that it won’t fit inside the glue box anyway. All 12 boards glued up. I think that I will add 2 more to make it 21” wide. Finally got a decent picture of all 14 boards glued up. Now to find help carrying it down to the garage when the weather turns nicer. It weighs over a hundred pounds. Not bad.

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View Alan Hart's profile

Question on clear finishing - Satin and matte finish, are they the same?

02-21-2015 03:24 PM by Alan Hart | 5 comments »

So there is my question. Is a satin finish the same as a matte finish? I made my wife a barn door headboard for Valintines Day (I will post picture when it is up). I made it out of 1×4 lumber and stained it gray to look old. She wants a matte finish, no shine at all, on it. She says a satin finish will have a slight shine to it. I said that satin and matte are the same. I know paint have a matte and it’s a dull look. If it is different, what do I use to put a clear on it that doesn...

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View ruddhess's profile (online now)

Southern Yellow Pine Work Surface (workbench) #4: Glue Curing Box

02-17-2015 09:19 PM by ruddhess | 5 comments »

Here is what I did yesterday: made a long box to keep the wood and glue warm while curing. Everything I needed was laying close at hand – literally! I had four old closet doors that I used as shelves a long time ago that were standing in the corner. I had used a couple of them as a flat work place to start gluing up the boards for my slab. I found 8 little metal angle braces with screws that I had bought a while back and never used. It is 78” long (my 72” boards fit j...

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Southern Yellow Pine Work Surface (workbench) #3: Glueing up pairs of boards and then glueing up quads

02-17-2015 02:44 AM by ruddhess | 2 comments »

This is the first two boards glued together the night before this picture. I have taken the bolts out and everything looks solid. Time will tell. This first one was probably the worst for glue coverage as I was in a hurry – it has been too long since I glued boards together. I keep thinking that if I didn’t hurry, the glue would set up and I’d have to do everything over again. But I think it will still be OK. I used plenty of glue on both sides and the only part I’...

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Southern Yellow Pine Work Surface (workbench) #2: Drilling holes for bolts and all-threads

02-15-2015 05:21 AM by ruddhess | 0 comments »

Using some 3-1/2” bolts to glue up two boards at a time. It is easier to keep everything square and straight this way. Also there’s no rush just gluing two boards together. The holes are 5/8” so that when I get ready to glue up the 6 sets of paired laminations, I can use the 3/8’ threaded rod – hopefully the holes line up well enough.

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View ruddhess's profile (online now)

Southern Yellow Pine Work Surface (workbench) #1: My first "benchtop"

02-13-2015 02:20 AM by ruddhess | 0 comments »

Beginning to make a Japanese style planing beam/board. 6 boards from Lowe’s – 2 X 10 X 12’s cut in half and staked up on my old sawhorses. I used a 1 X 2 “select” pine as a straight edge – screwed to the 2X with drywall screws as a guide for my circular saw. Set the depth to leave a wafer thin “bridge” on the very bottom so I didn’t cut into the board below. Worked very well. (Bit of a “mis-start” on the first board....

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View TannerTurnings's profile

Winter is Bowl Roughing Season....!! (work in progress)

02-05-2015 02:21 AM by TannerTurnings | 5 comments »

Well, it’s Winter here in the UK, and a good time to source some green timber & rough turn some bowls.I’m quite lucky in that I have a few friends who work cutting trees, so getting freshly cut timber isn’t much of a problem, and getting timber that has been cut in the Winter months is probably best if you want to turn natural edge bowls, but is also quicker drying as the sap content is less. Also, the temperature is much lower so that the timber doesn’t dry out s...

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View emart's profile

so many cracks. complete money pit

01-27-2015 09:58 PM by emart | 4 comments »

I finally got all the cracks and rotten spots fixed on my customer’s table top. I had to buy about $80 worth of resin to fix it. this wood was so porous and crumbly that tape would not stick to it. it seemed to just suck down resin like it was a sponge. This is a before picture some of the cracks and cavities were so big i could fit my fingers in them some photos after I filled in the cracks and sanded it to level the lumps out. I will give it a final pour of resin once the un...

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View sidekick's profile

leather on wood

01-26-2015 02:14 PM by sidekick | 1 comment »

I wood Burn art and doing my first oar from an old canoe. I have ac couple of cracks in the handle of the oar and decided to put leather around the handle part. Not sure how to do this with out making a big mess. I do one of a kind stuff never done twice so it is very important this is done right. Any one out there that can help? One day real soon I plan on trying to burn leather with my wood burner, is this possible?

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View WildWoodMan's profile

Chunks #1: In this series there will be chucks/ slabs of wood/ directional notch

01-23-2015 02:53 AM by WildWoodMan | 0 comments »

This a directional notch from a Professional Tree cutters left overs.Right away I saw a hunk of Watermelon, I still need to sand/ poly, an top off with Real watermelon seeds.

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