Here is the remainder of the yellow pine that I need for my workbench. I had decided to give this thing legs and a skirt (hmm, sounds bad I know – hey maybe it’s a Scottish bench? LOL). The 2 X 12 was for the skirts on the front and the back, and the 2 X 8’s were for leg stretchers. I had 6 pieces of center ripped 2 X 10’s left over from making the top that I could use to make the legs. Still deciding whether to make a regular workbench or stay with my original plan of...
I’m adding some reinforcement to my old sawhorses. I want to set my workbench top on these for a while and I don’t want them to wobble or collapse. I’m just using some old 3/8” T1-11 siding that I had from a long time ago. Some small “A” frame gussets attached with drywall screws. And with what was left of the siding, some 6-5/8” wide stretchers/stringers. Line it up flush on the right, and whack the left side off. I’m using my ...
I ended up gluing inside my apartment where it was warmer. Ice and snowoutside. It is wide enough now that it won’t fit inside the glue box anyway. All 12 boards glued up. I think that I will add 2 more to make it 21” wide. Finally got a decent picture of all 14 boards glued up. Now to find help carrying it down to the garage when the weather turns nicer. It weighs over a hundred pounds. Not bad.
So there is my question. Is a satin finish the same as a matte finish? I made my wife a barn door headboard for Valintines Day (I will post picture when it is up). I made it out of 1×4 lumber and stained it gray to look old. She wants a matte finish, no shine at all, on it. She says a satin finish will have a slight shine to it. I said that satin and matte are the same. I know paint have a matte and it’s a dull look. If it is different, what do I use to put a clear on it that doesn...
Here is what I did yesterday: made a long box to keep the wood and glue warm while curing. Everything I needed was laying close at hand – literally! I had four old closet doors that I used as shelves a long time ago that were standing in the corner. I had used a couple of them as a flat work place to start gluing up the boards for my slab. I found 8 little metal angle braces with screws that I had bought a while back and never used. It is 78” long (my 72” boards fit j...
Southern Yellow Pine Work Surface (workbench) #3: Glueing up pairs of boards and then glueing up quads
This is the first two boards glued together the night before this picture. I have taken the bolts out and everything looks solid. Time will tell. This first one was probably the worst for glue coverage as I was in a hurry – it has been too long since I glued boards together. I keep thinking that if I didn’t hurry, the glue would set up and I’d have to do everything over again. But I think it will still be OK. I used plenty of glue on both sides and the only part I’...
Using some 3-1/2” bolts to glue up two boards at a time. It is easier to keep everything square and straight this way. Also there’s no rush just gluing two boards together. The holes are 5/8” so that when I get ready to glue up the 6 sets of paired laminations, I can use the 3/8’ threaded rod – hopefully the holes line up well enough.
Beginning to make a Japanese style planing beam/board. 6 boards from Lowe’s – 2 X 10 X 12’s cut in half and staked up on my old sawhorses. I used a 1 X 2 “select” pine as a straight edge – screwed to the 2X with drywall screws as a guide for my circular saw. Set the depth to leave a wafer thin “bridge” on the very bottom so I didn’t cut into the board below. Worked very well. (Bit of a “mis-start” on the first board....
Well, it’s Winter here in the UK, and a good time to source some green timber & rough turn some bowls.I’m quite lucky in that I have a few friends who work cutting trees, so getting freshly cut timber isn’t much of a problem, and getting timber that has been cut in the Winter months is probably best if you want to turn natural edge bowls, but is also quicker drying as the sap content is less. Also, the temperature is much lower so that the timber doesn’t dry out s...
I finally got all the cracks and rotten spots fixed on my customer’s table top. I had to buy about $80 worth of resin to fix it. this wood was so porous and crumbly that tape would not stick to it. it seemed to just suck down resin like it was a sponge. This is a before picture some of the cracks and cavities were so big i could fit my fingers in them some photos after I filled in the cracks and sanded it to level the lumps out. I will give it a final pour of resin once the un...
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