Quite the little coincidence occurred today. My wood-shop teacher lent me some lubricant protector for my cast-iron table tops on my tools because I told him they were unprotected, he’s a great guy. So, when I get home from school and go to the shop to apply it, what do I see? The last foot of my lathe bed full of rust from a leak in the heater above it. Lets just say I was not very happy. I am guessing some of it was just rust drops from the ceiling, as there is a now a stain on the co...
I got the iron cleaned up yesterday. Check out my website for more details. I was pretty impressed with the outcome. I gotta get it sharpened now and start cleaning the plane itself. I removed the handle the other day and cleaned out the mortise for a spot for the new handle. Have some left over mahogany, anyone think that will work? Which way is best for the grain to run, vertical or horizontal?
So far so good, there are no surprises. No cracks or breaks. As you recall from my previous blog post the vise will not turn. There is no sense of restoring the vise if you can get to move. So this blog is about getting the screw to turn.I searched for woodworking Columbian vise information. There don’t seem to be much. What I have found so far are mostly pictures and mounting information, but not the details that I am after. Hopefully I am correct in my selection of words in describin...
I just got back from a woodworking tool estate sale. There were many good buys. I would of purchase a lot more but ran out of money. I spotted this woodworking vise and noticed that it is a quick release. I already got an old vice for the workbench that I am currently building, but it is not a quick release. I thought I would give it a go. I am taking a chance in buying a vise that wouldn’t turn. For $25.00, I don’t think it is much of a gamble. Here’s what I have foun...
I have already posted in forums on this topic but I had a suggestion that this may be a good idea to update my restoration status as I go. So I found this Rockwell/Delta 37-220 6” Jointer on CL the other day, asking $150, I drove 40 miles to look at it. Talked him down to $100 rather easily being it was missing the table out lock knob, the back door for the enclosed baseis also missing, as well as the beds being coated in rust, and the end of the cord has cardboard and electrical tap...
It all began when I was building my workbench (blogged here). I was using my first (dedicated woodworking tool purchased) #5 BORG buck-bros Jack plane and it broke. It was working quite well after I learned to tune it, but the materials it is made of are just too weak and flimsy and the yoke that controls the blade travel just broke and became useless: I was bummed, but hey it was a good learning experience, and I have been keeping an eye open for a replacement #5 ever since. not reall...
I’ll be documenting my restoration on my blog also. I got these on my last outing. I had just about given up hope when I saw one more yard sale sign on my way home. I managed to negotiate them down to $60. Its a Stanley #7C and #5C. The tote is broken on the 5, and the lip on the 7 also looks broken off. I’ll do a blog on restoring these once I can get some of my other projects squared away. I don’t think these are the kind that should be kept in its original rusty con...
This article first appeared on my website, Lockwatcher's Lair – I am duplicating it here to share my experience using this system with my fellow Lumberjocks. While not specificly “woodworking” this system can speed up the process of reconditioning old tools without destroying them. The Rust Bucket Let me first thank my good friend Dave, of Pearce Woodworking for this great idea. Dave had some used hand tools he needed to clean up and had located this method th...
I’ve got some things with brown stuff on them. Lesser men call it rust; true LJ’s don’t recognize this “rust” as a worthy foe. To follow is a real-time electrolysis setup. . I’m no expert on electrolysis, but being stupid has never stopped me from doing stupid things. I’m going to blog an electrolysisi system for rusty tools in real time. You accept all risk, as I’ll be deemed incompetent pre-trial, so good luck in the civil.. First...
I recently built a primitive cabinet with surface mounted hinges. The hinges were new and looked cheesy on the cabinet. I thought about painting the hinges black- but then decided to rust them instead. Rusting hinges and other metal parts for primitive furniture is EASY and QUICK. 2. Do not use a good pan. (Yes- I learned that the hard way today.) Soak your hinges etc in apple cider vinegar overnight. 3. The next day put equal parts liquid bleach and water in an OLD pan and put your part...
- My Journey As A Creative Designer - Woodworking and Beyond - 1793 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Toy costruction - 116 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 110 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 98 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- Woodworking on a Half-Shoestring - 82 parts
- Life as an Amateur Woodworker - 81 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1819 entries
- dbhost - 436 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 397 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- mafe - 313 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- William - 258 entries
- shipwright - 254 entries
- robscastle - 242 entries
- Dave Rutan - 231 entries
- Betsy - 228 entries
- stefang - 221 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- A Slice of Wood Workshop - 211 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 207 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Smitty_Cabinetshop - 195 entries