Time to install the drawer pulls. My hardware requires two holes drilled 3” on center.-----I use this little jig to make sure all the holes are aligned correctly. It is a full-sized pattern, and works for the 6” and 8” drawers. I use Scott Collins “No Math” method to layout the pull location, which is discussed further in my dresser blog here… http://lumberjocks.com/pintodeluxe/blog/34346-----I register the left edge of the drawer against the stop on ...
This is the project I am finishing up. The backsplash was nixed due to a Lumberjocks poll here…http://lumberjocks.com/topics/50516 The tribe has spoken. -----So it will actually look like this…-----When spraying shellac on the drawers, I masked the cedar drawer bottoms to maintain the nice aroma.-----Nightstand stained and lacquered. -----After the lacquer cures for at least 24 hours, I wax the cabinet with Howard’s walnut wax. -----I use a scrap of drawer front stock ...
This is the nightstand project…-----Panel glueup for the tops. I do my glueups in two stages. First I glue two pairs of boards together to make planks. Then I send them through the planer while they are still narrow enough to fit. Finally I glue these two planks together to make a panel. I describe flat panel construction in detail in my dresser blog… http://lumberjocks.com/pintodeluxe/blog/33797-----A pair of rough glueups complete. -----I made a template for the corbels, w...
This is the project at hand…-----Empty carcase ready to accept web frames.-----Installing lower web frame with biscuits in front, and dado in the rear. -----Web frames are glued into the dados. -----Notched corners fit neatly around legs. -----Checking that web frames are all in the same plane. -----Through mortise and tenon.-----1/4” straight bit.-----With a straight bit chucked in router #1, I hog out most of the waste for the dovetails. This step is optional, but I fi...
Here is the design for the nightstand….-----I set about notching stock for the web frames. I use a dado blade, however a bandsaw would work too. -----The web frames are joined with biscuits, and checked with a straightedge. -----Web frames and more web frames…------One or two of the joints needed a few passes with a block plane. -----I glued the lower front rail in place, connecting the two side panels. It’s amazing how much strength a through M&T joint has. ------...
Here is a sketch of the nightstand I am working on. It features one 6” over two 8” drawers. -----Side panel components have been sanded, and the solid panels pre-stained. Now a final test fitting before gluing them up. The lumber is QSRO.-----A shallow groove in the legs will receive corbels. -----Side panels glued up. -----Front lower rails have been shaped at the router table, and finish sanded. Next up is the back panel and web frames.
Here is the plan from my design. It incorporates some Stickley design elements. --The dresser carcases are assembled, including the small divider that separates the top two drawers.--The small dividers are attached with biscuits. To cut the slots, I opened the top two web frames like a clamshell. The web frames were aligned, and clamped together. Then I added an Emerson straightedge clamp, positioned to center the small divider on the web frame. --The ruler on the Emerson clamp helps cen...
It is now time to build the web frames that function as drawer dividers. The web frames are notched around the legs, and I decided to cut the notches with a dado blade. Here is my setup at the tablesaw with sacrificial fences on both the tablesaw and miter gauge. The result was nice crisp corners on the notches. This will be a visible joint at the front of the dresser. A bandsaw could also accomplish the task, but not quite as easily as a dado blade. After cutting pieces to ...
I never would have guessed that cutting 4 mortises would take all afternoon. Because the mortises are angled to match the wedges, the fitting process takes a little longer than usual. I cut the first one by hand, then decided to cut the rest at the mortiser. Cutting past the layout line on the shoulder side of the mortise will ensure the joint pulls tight. Keys installed. A few taps on the wedges and the shoulders draw up tight. The keys were cut on the bandsaw. When the k...
I had a little more handwork to do on the Little Journey’s Bookstand. I fiddled with the tusks a bit. I originally sanded the piece to 400 but decided to sand to 220 this time. The loose tenons/tusks took forever to sand and detail. Fuming Time I have always wanted to try this. Two years ago I had a student whose dad owned a blueprint shop. He gave me a large bottle of super strength ammonia. I had bought an ammonia respirator in preparation for the job. I build a simple te...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1197 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 87 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- Just for Fun... - 81 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- The Craftsman's Path - 67 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 67 parts
- Workshop Development - 66 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1219 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 388 entries
- dbhost - 332 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 301 entries
- Martin Sojka - 297 entries
- Karson - 294 entries
- William - 249 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- mafe - 208 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 187 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- Rustic - 183 entries
- PurpLev - 162 entries
- shipwright - 160 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 159 entries
- stefang - 145 entries