Hi everyone. My extremely talented wife just wrote a groundbreaking new APP for the iPad. It’s the first of it’s kind for woodworkers, enabling you to play with a 3D rocking chair (and all of the separate parts) right on the iPad. You can order parts, take notes and do lots of other cool stuff including watching come never-before-seen videos right within the APP. I admit it, I am a gadget guy, and this is so much fun to play with it makes it hard to go back to making sawdu...
Since the original EZ mitre blog there have been variations added. To formalise the adding of new and/or additional methods to the technique I will add updates for now and re-release the whole thing if I ever get time. The main reason for this update is, as has often been asked, ‘can this technique be done using a table mounted router and ‘v’ groove bit ?’ Up until now I have been reticent to suggest this but I have just this week discovered router bits that are up ...
With the move to the garage I planned on making a lot of stuff but got bogged down in making fixtures. The first thing I made was a saw sled for crosscutting boards square and without a lot of tear out. I used a ¾ thick piece of shop ply from a big box store and for the runners I used my thickness planer to reduce the thickness to fit the miter slot in the table saw. Is Craftsman the only saw with 5/8 wide miter slots? The front piece of the sled was made from a piece of 2×4 planed d...
I quickly modified my Router Table Design to lower the top by 1.75”. I also provided for a tray in the base of the unit. Instead of having the bottom stretchers screw together outside the legs I made this design so that the stretcher from the front to the back goes inside the legs. That basically makes the sides for a box. All it needs is a piece of plywood to form the bottom of the base. The cut list is: The tool footprint on the tabletop is: Normally a tool this b...
I like to grab a PDF copy of the manual for anything I own. I couldn’t find this manual with a google search, but found it through the website.
There are a lot of dado jig designs out there. They’ve all got some good features. I’m working on a modified version of the Never Fail Dado Jig. Its best feature is the knobs on the top.It gets it’s straightness from rails made of hardwood and works with a paired router bit/bushing. I think that the top where the knobs go was joined to the long side with pocket screws (can’t tell for sure from the pictures). I’d rather cut the whole thing from one piece of plywoo...
Got this Dovetail Jig at Harbor Freight in Harrisburg (PA). They don’t have it at my Pittsburgh HF. It looks like a beefier model than the one that I have seen elsewhere on the Internet. The template is solid aluminum not plastic like in the older model. Assembly was trivial – just screw in levers. Unit is nearly identical to this one (better manual for this one). Amazon of the “other one”.
Took a Harbor Freight run in Hempstead, NY and in Harrisburg, PA. Bought a big pile of stuff. Finally found a HF with the Dovertail jig. $34 seems like a great deal. I’m sure it’s not a perfect jig, but hopefully it will be worthwhile.
In this part, I glue up the main portion of the top, that sucker is heavy. I also mill the parts for the legs and stretchers, lay them out and cut the core mortise and tenon joinery.
The first time I ever saw a box joint jig guided by a template bearing was six or seven years ago when a friend showed one as a club demo. His jig was a simple plywood sled with a fence, a wooden bar for spacing the fingers, and a slot through the base that fit a template bearing guide. If I remember correctly, his made joints with 3/8” fingers. Shortly after his demo, I made the smaller jig shown below for 1/8” ‘fingers on small drawers. Here’s a photo of a jewelry ...
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