I’d like to start by saying thanks to all the positive people here on LJ. I posted a video last week, http://lumberjocks.com/davemoorefurniture/blog/14854, and got some very nice responses and a warm welcome. To give a proper thanks to the LJ community and to contribute to the advancement of all our skills and enjoyment, here is another video.This video is on scratch stocks; a simple way to make molding. In combination with the router I show how to design and make a cutter that creat...
INTRODUCTION.. When I started experimenting with using my router for inlays I thought only in the context of straight lines since that was what routers did best. Unfortunately my tastes in designs included Celtic Art especially Knot-work which is mostly curves. These would obviously need some sort of template to guide the router. A cursory inspection of a typical Celtic Knot suggests that they are too complex for a simple template. However a closer examination and study convinced me that s...
In this episode I talk about router bits.
The title is a little misleading. The bed is actually refinished. This was a project 2 years in the making. A neighbor grew tired of her grandmothers bed set sitting on her back porch and offered it to me two summers ago. Her idea was I would refinish it for my then 13 year old daughter. It was made sometime before 1936 and is a nice old piece, well made and in need of some TLC. I jumped at the chance to hone my finishing/refinishing skills, since I don’t have any to speak of. Wh...
The day after my last post, I routed the rabbitt around the edge, and glued in the Bubinga border. I used a block plane and scraper to get it even with the rest of the top. I gave up on sanding out the tool marks from the surfacing operation, thinking the polyurethane would make them disappear. Almost, but not quite. From what I’ve seen, it appears that the epoxy didn’t actually seal the end grain, it just ran right through it. I applied the first coat of polyurethane very ...
Once again.. were building.. I made the face frame and the door frames… Face frame was pretty straight forward. I measured, laid out the feet and then cut them out…. > Then I clamped them out and marked out the tenon’s and cut the mortises… Here is a test fit… > Kay, Frame done I pretty much did them same.. cutting out the Bottom doors the Tops of the Upper doors are arched SO I thought I would explain them in detail… First I made a Temp...
OK, I’ve got a tool gloat. I normally only buy woodworking tools used or on sale. This purchase is arguably one of my best. Reguarly $119 at Lowes, this Porter Cable 4210 Type 1 12” Dovetail Jig (for half blind and sliding dovetails) was a display and had been marked down a couple of times. When I saw it the price was $50. But that’s not what I paid. I know dovetails are the center of the universe for some, but I have never cut a dovetail, well a few sliding dovetails on...
In this episode I talk about the router.
Here is part two of my attempt at installing a new shop door. I again bought a cheap door and I am doing my best to reinforce the door and jamb from possibly being kicked in. I know this isn’t the most professional job, but I should only have about $150.00 into this project. The new door looks twice as good and is much more secure. In order to reinforce the jamb I first upgraded the strike plate which I showed in blog part 1. http://lumberjocks.com/559dustdesigns/blog/14664Today I f...
I tapped the holes that were meant for the original fence with a 10mm tap. I drilled and countersunk the angle irons with the center hole slightly higher than the ones near the edge. I then re clamped the top to take the bow out and attached the angle iron with Gr. 8 machine screws. After a few hours of hand filing and test fitting, I got the angle irons attached plus I put lock nuts on the inside. My smallest feeler guage is .008 and must be forced under the straight edge at the worst po...
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