So … among my 3,000 eye problems is intermittent double vision. But … I don’t think that’s the problem, here. I seek the expert counsel of the venerated and revered LumberJocks: IS IT just me …. ?? Tenons are better the second time around!! Incidentally, I occasionally do more than just clean my shop :-) Cheers, All!
Right now, i am in the process of making a candle holder for my wife. I am using some scrap oak for the legs, and quite possibly some maple for the tops and sides. I have gotten the legs cut and sanded, but need to get the material for the tops and sides. I will post pictures as soon as I finish cutiing the rest of it out and get it assembled. Sorry been so long……..... finished the project and gave it to my wife for her birthday……. she took it to work and I forgot to take pictu...
The whole point of devoting my early woodworking days to building stuff for woodworking is to learn. Today, while reading the latest issue of shop notes, I learned that the router table top, which I am building, is a laminated top. I guess I had always thought that laminated only applied to thin strips glued together. I don’t know why I assumed there was some sort of arbitrary thickness requirement. Now I know.The seven sets of laminated sections have become three. The middle section...
There’s no such thing.! You need to buy the kit for the larger Triton router and then call HTC (new Triton owner) and ask them for the adapter bushing that lets you not have to mount the oversized base plate that comes with the guide kit. Don’t let them charge you for this. They shoud have provided it in the kit or, better yet, make a kit that’s designed for the 2 1/4 router. Just a nuisance. AND here’s another problem with the template guide setup in general: W...
I have a Walnut table top I have put attached to the frame. What are your thoughts for a finish, what should I use. I don’t want to worry about water spots or something warm being put on it and the finish peeling up. This is really far out of my league I have never built anything like this I just need some great advice please!!!![IMG]http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae37/nattnaifeh/table2.jpg[/IMG]http://i955.photobucket.com/albums/ae37/nattnaifeh/table2.jpg
I’ve uploaded instructions for how to use the router jig in my project section. Enjoy. (And let me know if you reckon you could improve it.) instructions @ theloveofwood
Quite a few years ago I made a fence positioning jig from a design by Nick Engler. It was nice and worked fine, but when I built a new router table I also built a split fence so I would have the option of moving the outfeed side of the fence outwards to fully support the workpiece through the entire cut when jointing. I just occurred to me that I could use the positioning jig together with my split fence as shown below. One full turn of the handle on the positioner and the fence moves 1mm ...
I tried keeping it as simple as possible, and worked the best I could to make the grain complimentary, and this is what I have been able to come up with. What you see here will NOT be what is all visible above ground. Remember I have dot have something sunk into the concrete footer right? The design is pretty simple. Cross built from double layer cedar 2×4s, 12” wide x 24” tall (above ground). The edges are all relieved with my 1/2” 22.5 degree chamfer bit. I thought...
In this episode I cut the dados on the sides for the 4 shelves. Then I cut the 1 in strips that are going to be on the back of each shelf to stop shoes from going over the back.
Recently I built and I’m now painting my SawStop and Router Cabinet. Some LJs asked about how I was able to avoid having a hose jet out from the back of my router fence to control the dust above the table here are some pictures of how I directed the dust from the top of the table down into the rear of my two-chamber router box and then out the back of my cabinet. I hope these pictures show you my idea around this. I hope this helps to those who wanted to know. Here’s a link ...
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