Here is a little video for Marc’s charity build.
Este tipo de ensamble unicamente lo he leido, y visto en algunos posts, lo mas descriptivo que he encontado es un articulo de chest of books.Practiqué el ensamble de forma manual primero en pino y dos veces mas en encino sin lograr muy buenos resultados.La pregunta del millon…¿se pueden hacer con router? la respuesta SIEn breve mostrare los resultados e ire creando algo asi como un tutorial completo. Este es el ensamble hecho a mano. Estos otros con Router Me di a l...
Hope you enjoy this weeks review on a router.
Next step in the process is to create the profiled legs. I start with the stock that I milled earlier. Fortunately, I was able to get pieces that could be finished to 7/8” rather than 3/4”. Slightly thicker pieces will leave room for a nice profile and adequate room for joinery. I install a profile bit and make a few test cuts until it looks right to me. Because tear out is bad on end grain, I like to route the end grain before ripping to final width. ...
Here are the instructions for making my style of the wine bottle balancer: 1. Cut pieces to size on the table saw: 3”x12” (3/4” stock). 2. Drill angle hole at 45 degrees, 3” from one end on the drill press with a 1 3/8” forstner bit. 3. Cut rounded top on band saw, jig saw, or scroll saw. 4. Round over edges on both sides of the board with a round-over bit on router table (this is optional, but it just makes for a more decorative look and...
Recently I started a Hickory Chest Project. This chest will feature raised panels as well as a cedar lining. I have been videoing the build. To share with viewers who might like to watch. I’m right at the point of getting ready for the finish. But before i do, I want to pose a question to my fellow Lumber Jock’s… Here is a picture of the Chest. It has some cool features. ( beetle bore holes, knots, etc.) Id like to showcase in the project. With that being said. Here is my qu...
After a number of failed attempts on the table saw to match the angles perfectly, I realized I could make the cuts simpler and more accurate with the track saw, and so I set the angle at 10 degrees for each piece, with the blade tilted at 1.5 degrees (which was needed to keep the shape square). I still do not fully understand why, but more about that in the final chapter. Next I set the fingers on the jig and marked the center and proceeded to cut the pins. With a 24̶...
In this Episode:the conclusion of Matt’s router Bowl
In my last blog, I created the tray bottom. In this blog, I will cut the grooves for the tray bottom, rout finger holds and put the tray together. First step is to cut grooves in the tail section. I use the MCLS 13/64” plywood bit (because 1/4” plywood is smaller than it’s nominal size). As a rule of thumb, I like to cut the groove 2x the groove width (so 1/2” in this case) from the bottom in order to leave enough material for a strong assembly. I mark t...
The last installment of this series was originally titled Milling the stiles and rails and described prepping the blanks for the panels. Sigh. Sorry about that. I’ve fixed that entry title. This door would be for the passage between my foyer and formal living room, so I thought the best side should face the foyer. I inspected each blank for the stiles and rails and picked out the best side as the “foyer” side, marking each part with chalk to indicated what part it was...
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