This was supposed to be part #2 but it’s #1. See #2 for the back story on my router table. The first improvement to my router table was the fence. I have a bunch of mdf that’s been in the shop for years so that’s what I used. I know, not the best material for a project like this. But, my fence was a hodgepodge of ideas and I built it with no plans and just guessed at the measurements. IF it doesn’t hold up at least I’ll have a better idea of what I’...
Dang, I have parts 1 and 2 reversed in the blog. Sorry, but this was my first time trying to use the blog. I’ve been cleaning, reorganizing and rearranging my shop lately. The latest task has been to update my router table. I thought I’d start this blog with what I’ve been using. This was built approximately 9 years ago and has served reasonably well. I had acquired several metal cabinets from a copy machine company and started with one of those. I mounted it ...
Well it’s been quite a while since I wrote an entry for this but I figured I would share the finished product. I hadn’t needed to use my router throughout the summer on most of the projects I was working on so it basically sat as a cabinet with a top that housed my miter saw. When I built my tapering jig though it came down to me needing to finish this up so that it could be put to good use. I positioned the router plate exactly where I needed it and then cut some pieces of MDF...
I finally got around to making the shaker wall clock like Norm Abrams did on the New Yankee Workshop many years ago. Please view my video here: http://youtu.be/zDL9bfkEObY Thanks! Chris
For my workbench i needed a tall stool for more accurate work and just a place to rest. This is a descripition on how i made this project. Searching LJ i found these two fine projects:- Having a fascination with all-things-Japanense (having both worked in a sushi restaurant and done karate for several years) these Singer-songrwriters chairs by Junji impressed me.- This post on shop stools by shipwright described a interesting method for dying oak black with steel wool dissolved in wineg...
Time to make the frames for the drawer fronts. The pieces were narrow and some were small so I set up a featherboard to help safely guide the pieces past the cutter. They turned out nice. The drawer fronts will have flat panels. I could have used either plywood or mdf but NO! Instead, I glued up some short pieces of poplar, planed them to almost 3/8 inch thick, then ran them through the drum sander. Next, it was cut to final size, then rout a rabbit in the rear so the panels would fit i...
There won’t be many more opportunities before the snow flies, so Debbie and I took another trip up the coast Sunday… It was a Glorious Day, a little windy perhaps, but Sunny and Warm… During our Beach walk, we came upon a White Birch Log half buried in the sand… I thought and re-thought about whether to bring the thing home… I don’t even know if wood is any good after floating around in the Ocean, but the Log moved me somehow, so I moved it, up and into ...
It’s been a somewhat hectic week, so the workshop has had to take a back seat, however not all has been sweetness and light!! I thought I had found the plans for the perfect Router table to fit into a micro-workshop, as I had previously reported, I drew out all the parts on a 3/4” sheet of Ply, spent a day or two, cussing like mad, trying to make space to do the cutting, and then fortunately did a dry-fit of the main parts… Router table Mk1 was abandoned! there was no way...
It has been a long time since I started this blog and I thought I would have gotten to this stage a lot earlier. After my last posting I had to stay out of the shop for a while due to trouble with one of my feet the resulted in my having to have surgery so that set me back quite a bit. Then as I was trying to finish the board I was using my 16-32 drum sander and could not get the board to come out flat. No matter what I did it had a rock from corner to corner. I would take the machine apart a...
Here is some more progress of the inlay. I started off by lightly tacking the star in the position I wanted and tracing the outline with a sharp knife. Light strokes at first and then gradually deeper. And then using a chisel to remove a little v notch. This allows me to cut slightly deeper with the knife and establishes the outside shoulder of the inlay mortise. It also gives me a visual barrier to look out for on the next step. I chucked up a small straight cutting bit in m...
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