Yesterday I took the end cap and cut out two mortises first using a spade bit and then chiseling it square. I had to trim the tenons down a bit to fit in, and when I was squaring the small mortise, part of the end grain wall broke away leaving me with a big gap. I really didn’t want to make another end cap and do all of this work again, so I think I’m going to go with it for now. If I decide later I can’t live with it, I can just take it off and make another o...
GrandBRATS screaming, and a-fightin….too much noise upstairs, time to retreat to the Dungeon Shop, and LOCK the door behind me…. Weeeelll now. Decided to build that drawer. Cut the sides to size. Then set up the router table to cut some grooves. Had to clear all the junk off of it first. Set a 1/4” straight bit. Set up the fence with a pair of clamps holding it in place. Tried a piece of scrap, first, just in case… Ok, that is set up and waiting…a...
Well, the tops have taken longer than I anticipated. But it has turned out nice. The original Short Block V8 designed with a Torsten box top but I wanted a solid top. After lots of consideration I decided that I wanted the top to be Baltic Birch laminated on edge for the top. This would be consistent with the leg construction and would make for a very solid top. However this presented an issue as Baltic Birch is not cheap (best price here in Oregon, USA is $55.00 for a 5×5’ sheet...
I forgot to update last week. I didn’t get much done because I was busy fixing a mistake. In episode 6 I showed a picture of the end tenon and the lead screw channel cut out. The weird thing is that the huge mortise cut into the end of the tenon. The mortise was too wide and I didn’t notice until last week I was thinking about it when I was in bed. That’s when I do my best thinking. I got up in the morning and checked the drawing and I was right. The drawing says the mortise...
Well, thanks to being allowed back at my “day job”, not too much has been done. I did get the stretcher glued into place.. And the front and back edges of the top jointed down level with the bread board edges Let the glue set up for a day or two ( Doctor visits and tests ) then attached the top. I figured it would be easier to do it now, rather than wiggle in past the runners for the drawer. Got the front of the drawer sized and fitted to the table. So I decided to...
Hello All, I have an acquaintance who has done some large favors for me over the last couple of years. I was compelled to recompense him somehow, eventually insisting he let me make for him the woodshop project of his choice. After powwowing with his wife, they came back with three choices of an end table, and this is the one i decided to make: [URL=http://s242.photobucket.com/user/pac1for/media/EisTabOrig.jpg.html][IMG]http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff313/pac1for/EisTabOrig.j...
Well, did a bit of saw work today. Figured up I needed 3 boards @ 3/4” x 5-1/2” x 25” Circular saw did the work, after I had clamped the 8’ long plank in place. Had enough left over to form the back apron. Dry fit in the pipe clamps, looks good, spread some yellow glue around and clamp them up. Later, after the glue had cured, started to surface the top. A few handplanes to do the job. Had some “marks” on one board that needed to go… ...
Yesterday and today were relatively productive for the most part. I got the dovetails cut on the three drawers. I cut these with a PC 4200 series dovetail jig. The front is attached with halfblind dovetails. These are usually the easiest to setup and cut but for some reason I had a hard time setting things up. and when I cut them two came out tighter than I like two were right on and two were a little loose. I don’t know why nothing moved. The through dovetails on the rear of the...
Last night I snuck out to the shop to take the clamps from the front top that I glued up earlier that day and used them to glue up two of the legs. I just had to get it done before bed. This morning I just let them sit as I had other stuff to do. I started with flattening the bottom surface of the front top. I had to run it across the jointer in halves like I did with the back top and I thought I did ok but I realized that after running the top surface through the planer, that surface was...
Okay, I was asked to post a how to for the, I guess I’ll start calling it “vanishing” hinge, since it’s not completely invisible. Anyway I struggled with posting this tutorial, because in this instance things went badly, but I think it’s just as important to publish the mistakes as the successes, because that way whoever reads this can see where the pitfalls are. So in the spirit of full disclosure, here goes. Okay, this tutorial is for 1/2” wood and dow...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1584 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 96 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- ScrollSaw Information and Resources - 68 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1609 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 396 entries
- dbhost - 390 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- mafe - 278 entries
- William - 258 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- shipwright - 213 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 199 entries
- stefang - 198 entries
- Rustic - 188 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 185 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- Smitty_Cabinetshop - 176 entries