Tapering of the legs went pretty well. The tapering jig in the last post failed a little because all I had done is shoot brad nails in the cross braces. ( Duh!) had to reset the angle and re-cut a few sides but not too bad. (lesson #1: secure the jig!) Since this was a 4 side taper, I cut 2 sides, then used the off-cut as a wedge to fill the gap when I cut the other 2 sides. I cut the notch (dado?) for the shelf in my table saw sled before I did the taper so it would be perpendicular ...
A few people have asked for more information so here goes. Use a piece of scrap timber preferably hardwood about 100mm (4”) x 45mm wide (1 3/4) x 20mm thick (3/4”).For 1/8” dowel bore a 9/64” (1/8” is to tight) hole straight through the length approximately in the centre, then cut a notch 3/4” wide and 1” from the end. This is the gap for the straight cut router bit This notch only needs to go slightly past the back edge of the 9/64” hole.Now b...
Yep, using soft pine. Not confident enough yet to spend the $ on hardwood. This could just end up being a prototype if I don’t like how it finishes but it wont be used for chopping. Updated Plan Gluing up the legs: Taper Jig ready (haven’t made it adjustable yet) Gluing up the top. Need some shorter pipes for my pipe clamps. 5’ pipe clamps on a 16.5” wide top. “ha!” but I needed their strength.. Top ended up with a slight twi...
I have recently started a new project that requires walnut dowel so I set about coming up with an idea to make perfect dowel every time.The video shows my router clamped upside down in the wood vise and the square piece of walnut being fed through a neat fitting hole while being spun at high speed with a drill.The secret is to have a neat fitting entry hole before the straight cut router cutter and an exit hole after the cutter that is 1/64” bigger than the size of dowel that is require...
I had a need to create a bunch of drawers. I wanted to use baltic birch plywood for the drawer boxes and I wanted to have them dovetailed. The problem I faced and maybe others too is tear out of the plywood. I was always fumbling with a way to clamp a backer board tight to prevent tear out. I came up with a solution to attach “clamps” to my porter cable 4210 jig and use it’s structure. Here is one of the clamps I made. If I remember correctly I think it’s 1 1/8...
Last year I picked up the DrillMaster #68341 Fixed Base Router at a Harbor Freight store. With the workshop in such disarray at the time, it got put away and forgotten. Months later I found it and checked it out. Like many have complained, the machining of the aluminum router body is dramatically undersized in comparison to the fixed base. When the clamp on the base is engaged, the router is pushed off center. Too much time had passed since I bought it, and on a $60.00 USD item I won̵...
I was looking around at router tables and all the ones that were small enough for my shop were made of cheap particle board. I would also need a less clunky router so I went in a different direction. Instead I bought this delta shaper for $160 which included the original stand. A modern Jet shaper of the same size would cost about 1200 new. I still need to buy some cutters for this machine before I can test it. The motor and other moving parts seem to be functional with minimal surface r...
Continuing on, I get the top ready for glue up and get it put together. Some preliminary work on flattening it and getting it cut to size and shape. By the end the top is pretty close to being done as far as working the wood. View on YouTube
Following up on the current build… This next part is the carving process of the soundboard. Link to view the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OzTgu1dqCSU
Anybody have any clever ideas how to build a doorway like this with large rounded corners? I wish there was a giant router big enough do do this kind of thing.
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