I filmed the build on my YouTube Channel. Please check it out! http://youtu.be/qDOujXINlE0 Typical washer and dryers are lower to the ground. You can buy stands for each unit for around $150-250. I decided to build mine and incorporate stylish hardware, larger drawers, classy hutch, and a special detergent feature. The build consists of MDF, Poplar face frames, brushed nickel hardware, full extension drawer slides, Oil based primer, and white paint. Primary construction method was ra...
Mission Inn, Riverside, CA from our Room… I forgot to get a picture of our room! (this is a Hotel picture of how it was) . . . . . . Next: St. Francis Chapel… where we were married.
Mission Inn, Riverside, CA Hotel Lobby and walk to Room . . . . . . Next: Pictures from our Room
I found another day off, so I immediately ran out into the shop before I could get distracted. I was able to finish the joinery on the base ends. As with everything else in life, the relative ease of the BeadLock Pro has disadvantages in repeatable accuracy. I don’t know how or why, but I do eight mortises and they only come out within 1/16” of each other. This has caused a 1/8” difference between the mortises, pretty much ruining my reveal on the spindles. I’ll f...
I was able to squeeze another good day in the shop around work. I ran off to buy some more oak, then got home and planed enough of it down to glue up the stretchers/aprons for the table ends. While the laminations were cooking, I decided to give the BeadLock Pro a whirl. Having made integral tenons with chiseled mortises, and loose tenons with the router, I have to say this method is considerably easier and faster. First, I was able to cut off the parts to their finished length, without...
It’s been months since I’ve been able to do any woodworking. I guess being busy in this economy is a good thing. I finally got a couple of days in the shop to address in-progress projects. The biggest was my mental block on the 4-sided quartersawn legs for the dining table. In a previous entry, I discussed how I botched the lock miter joint. It took me a while to get up the nerve to get back to work on them because if I biffed it again, they’d be too thin and I’d ...
I took everyone’s advice and went out into the shop this morning to fix the lock-miter. I ran a couple of test pieces of poplar through, both moving the fence forward and back (I kept the height the same to reduce variables). Ironically, although the two pieces of poplar fit together poorly, each one fit the previously routed oak very nice. Since I couldn’t figure out how to make that work, I just glued the legs up as is. I know, I know… Anyway, after sufficient time ...
Today, I bit the bullet and tried out my 45 degree lock-miter bit to make the four-sided quarter-sawn white oak 4” x 4” legs. I outsmarted myself by trimming the edges at 45 degrees. Unbeknownst to me, the router bit needs all the meat it can grab to make the “tongues”. As a result, I have very little “lock” in my lock-miter. I have just enough to register the corner, but I’ve lost about half of my glue surface. Sigh… The good news is that...
So today, I cleaned up the shop a bit and started on the template to make the back legs. Based on my AutoCAD drawing, I laid it out on some 1/4” masonite (hardboard). I even remembered to make it longer to affix the ends together. I cut it out and faired it as best I could. It’s almost perfect (you can spot 1/1000” off) when sighting down it. It looks pretty darn good from the side. I then double-sided taped it to a roughed out blank and using my pattern-followin...
So I took a few minutes to draw this up in AutoCAD (sorry I’m not up to speed in SketchUp yet). The only dimension I had to assume were the front-to-back rails that intersect the middle of the chair back. I went with 3” because that’s what looked to scale, and gave room for a proper radius. I could’ve sprung for the $20 full-sized plans, but what’s the fun in that? The reason I drew this out is because the back is defined by a 7 degree angle. I thought it w...
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