First things first: I am a mostly self-taught woodworker that has been at it for about 20 years. I’ve made a wide range of projects, mostly focused around furniture and accessories for the house, typically Craftsman, Arts and Crafts, Stickley, and Greene and Greene influences. I’ve been working in the chemical manufacturing world as a chemical engineer for 27 years. I’m currently a Project Engineer by day, working for one of the largest corn processing companies in the world building ch...
I stained and sprayed lacquer, and let the finish cure for 48 hours. Next I waxed the bed with Howard’s Walnut Wax and #0000 steel wool. Then I turned my attention to mounting the drawer pulls. I use Scott Collins “no math” method for laying out the hole locations. Then I offset the holes 3/16” higher than the layout mark, because the threads on the pulls are off-center. I use a full-size jig to mount the four pulls. -----Drawer pulls installed.-----I installed a...
Time to build drawers for the bed.-----I am using a P.C. jig to machine the dovetails. Everything is pretty standard, except the bit I use, which is a larger 14 degree dovetail bit from Rockler. I like to set up two routers – one with a 1/4” straight bit, and one with the dovetail bit. -----I start by hogging out waste with the straight bit. -----The second pass is with the 14 degree dovetail bit. -----I find this two-pass method makes cleaner cuts, with less chance of the wo...
Here is the bed project, which is nearing completion.-----A couple of headboard details remain, one of which is the wedge and strap detail. I tapered the backsplash, and glued the wedges on. Next I use carpet tape to attach the backsplash to a strip of plywood. This serves as a reference edge as I cut the dado for the walnut inlay. -----I use a dado set and miter gauge to cut the shallow dado. I make sure to cut both ends of the backsplash before adjusting the fence. Normally one would ...
The platform support features ten plywood panels that transfer the load straight to the floor. One corner is knocked off, so it won’t be visible under the arched sides of the bed. -----My wife and I worked on assembly of the carcase. We started by gluing and screwing five panels to the side rail. The top of the panels are flush with the groove in the side rails.A lower strip of plywood is then set into notches in the panels. -----Then another strip fills the top notch in the panels...
This is where we left things last time… -----Now I need to cut mortises for the side rail assembly. The mortises are offset, to avoid intersecting the groove. -----I cut grooves for the false drawer panels in the side rail assembly.-----With all the joinery cut, I can now cut arches on the lower rails. -----Then I carefully layout hole locations for the bed bolts. The holes in the upper rails intersect the groove for the plywood base, however plenty of wood remains for a sturdy c...
Here is where I am currently at with the bed project. -----The plans call for side rails 1-1/2” thick. The 8/4 at the lumberyard didn’t look too good, some even sporting snipe 3/4” thick! So I decided to achieve the desired thickness by laminating 5/4 with 4/4 boards. -----After milling the glueups flat and square, I wrestled them over the dado blade to create the tenons. My 8” dado set couldn’t reach the entire shoulder, so there was considerable hand trimm...
Here is the queen bed project I am working on…-----In my last entry I completed the locking miter joints that form the transition between the side panels and the central panel. -----The central panel has two small floating panels, and a small mid-shelf. The opening near the top will receive a 7-part splat inspired by Kevin Rodel’s arts and crafts dining chairs. -----I route a groove in the spindles to receive the thin components of the splat. Notice the stop block for consiste...
Here is the queen bed project I am working on…-----Before moving on to the headboard, I needed to install some button caps on the footboard. I start by chamfering a 15 degree pyramid on the end of some leg stock. -----Pyramid shape complete.-----Next I use the dado set to cut a tenon on the end of the button cap.-----Then the button cap is cut free.-----Finally I route a mortise for the button cap with a plunge router and spiral bit. -----Button caps installed on footboard. -----Now...
Here is the bed project at hand…-----I added some through tenons to complete the front legs.-----With the legs complete, it was simply a matter of constructing a mortise and tenon frame. The grooves for the panels are 1/2” deep, while the stile tenons are 1-1/2” long for added strength. This extra tenon length also helps to register the stiles in postion during glueup. -----Next I temporarily clamp the panel behind the frame, to transfer the opening size to the panel. -...
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