I have taken the handle off the saw, hit it with a wire brush to remove any loose rust, and coated it with Navel Jelly. This is the first time I have used it and I have to say I like it alot. I have to give the saw one more coat to remove any stubborn rust left. Then I will start wet sanding it. Thanks for looking and please leave a comment with any advice you my have since this is my first saw rehab. Thanks again.
I picked up a Stanley Miter Box no. 346 at a swap meet this past weekend for $15. As you can see it is in pretty bad shape. The saw blade is completely rusted, the handle is in good shape. I can see some markings on the blade but cannot make them out. I will be taking the saw apart and coating it with Navel Jelly to remove the rust. I will be leaving the handle as is, I like the look. More to follow.
A kind LJ frequenting the HPOYD thread noticed a question I asked about spokeshaves, and was nice enough to send an old one my way for about the cost of shipping only. Thank you again, kind sir. Here’s how it looked right out of the box. No maker’s marks or model numbers, but sturdy enough from the look of it. A little bit of surface rust. Nothing too gnarly. The screw for the lever cap is slightly bent, but it still turns alright. Couldn’t find a thumbscre...
FINALLY! I recieved my replacement SW frog on Friday and went to work getting it cleaned up and ready for installation today. Works great and the shavings you see are from the blade as I received it as I haven’t sharpened it yet! Just a refresher.. the before.. Annnnnnnd The After! Thanks for reading!
I am down to waiting on paint to dry with this restoration. Here is a quick breakdown of todays events.. Scrub the base clean and prepped for paint. Now you can clearly see the patent markings.. Same for the frog.. Prime then paint… I don’t bother masking the areas that need lapping since they will all be sanded clean anyway. Saves time and leaves a cleaner line on the japanning from what I can tell. While that was drying outside I got ...
Since my last blog post on my #3C rehab I got everything broken down and soaking. I haven’t had time to go pick up my Evaporust yet so I decided to try and give my home made brew of cider vinegar and baking soda one more go. While that was soaking I started on the tote repair and looking for a new front knob in my “box o’ shame” aka my parts box of either poorly purchased planes or parts that got replaced… does everyone have a box like this or am I ju...
I picked up a Stanley no 3C on eBay last week for a whopping $10. It looked rough in the pics and not much was said about it but the price was right and it looked complete enough to get back into shape. I just got it out of the mail today and had my first look at it and to my surprise it is a Sweetheart model :D It has had the cap screw replaced with a bolt and the front knob looks like someone turned it from a broom handle and the tote is broken in 2 but over all this thing is really...
6 and another #4 they both in rough shape hopefully can make them into somethinglook to be made by Sargent? #6 #4 so i took the 6 apart Tote is missing the top tip, knob is grungy, both gonna get stripped/sanded. Lots of rust all over, the japping/paint is 70% shot. blade rust looks bad, but no pitting that i can tell more later..
i bought a Craftsman plane off ebay for $5.00 + shipping last week, got off work today and opened my package sitting on my doorstep and began to disassemble the rusty thing. I am a virgin at this so im tryin to document this for myself, and fishing for advice possibly :) 9 1/4” x 2.5” #4? blade and chipbreaker lookin a bit rough (had some bits of wood stuck between them when i took it apart) Millers Falls? Craftsman 107-37034, plastic knob and tote ...
I managed to land some commissions this week so when i was cutting some material the outfeed drop leaf table on my radial saw decided to give up the ghost. the osb sheeting on my drop leaf desintegrated where the piano hinge mounts. time for an upgrade! the new ones will be laminated plywood cores with cut down 2×3s framing the edges so that the hinges have solid wood to screw into and the frames will hold the weight instead of the plywood. this will all be topped with some white 1/8...
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