Pics will be in a few minutes… Where exactly did I leave off last time…ahh the main body is essentially done, and now all the adjustment features are all that’s left. Boxing The one weakness of cherry for planes is that it’s just a little bit soft. Not much softer then beech, but enough that a harder sole will help over the years. Especially on a fillister or rabbet plane where almost all of the wear is on a corner. I chose bubinga to box it with, because its ...
By Joshua Farnsworth (Writer at WoodAndShop.com) I’m excited to share a quick video tutorial about how to cut rabbet joints by hand, with a few simple hand tools. This method focuses on cutting rabbets along the grain, which is especially useful for cutting moldings (first step in using hollows & rounds molding planes), picture frames, etc. Go to this original blog entry (here) for some links to the tools that I used in this tutorial (you can use variations):-Marking gauge (I...
What to Expect This blog series will highlight some of the techniques I use in solid wood case construction. My previous blog, about building the New Gloucester rocker, covered nearly every step in photographs with an occasional video. This blog will not detail every step along the way, but will rather explore key details of case construction using primarily videos. The videos are “rough takes” since I’m not going to spend the extra time to edit them. In those situati...
It’s been about two years since I posted anything here – suspiciously similar to how long I was busy being a student at business school – so time to get back to it. I’ve dusted off my Sunshine tender model and cleared off room on the workbench so this winter it’s getting done. The backbone pieces get set up on the building frames and the transom and transom knee are glued onto the keel. The rubber band is to hold the keel down because it has a slight curve. ...
Decided to do the groove in the bread boards on the router table with a slot cutter bit And then to do the tounge on the end grain of the top with a rabbet bit. I often find the parallel set up bars used with the machinist vice on my bench top mill come in handy for set ups. They are 1/8” thick, so in this case two of them inserted in the groove with a feeler guage leaf was snug as a bug in a rug. This allowed me to match the rabbet bit height to groove bottom. the resu...
If you’ve been following along, the space at the bottom left of the cabinet is reserved for install of a tambour (roll-up) door salvaged from the donor Hoosier cabinet. Not certain what will ultimately live in that cubby re: tools, but it’s inspired by a tambour’d cabinet Stanley sold in the 30s. New, red oak tambour doors (15”x17”) cost more than $80 per. Wow, didn’t know what a treasure I had back when I reduced the donor cabinet to a stack of component p...
I found some great ideas for building storage beds for our two boys on the internet, at Ana White Homemaker. After studying these plans for a bit, I decided I wanted to make some changes, mainly to upgrade the joinery methods and make the base cabinets deeper, so they met in the middle under the box spring. So, here’s what I came up with after learning google sketchup, and going through a few design revisions. This bed is basically made up of several box cabinets that will be bolted ...
I wanted to make the bench’s stretchers as proportionately beefy as the top and legs. Since my legs are 5” square, I figured it would work well, and look good, to make the stretchers about 3 1/2” high, and about 2 1/2” thick. So I had to AGAIN joint, plane, glue, clamp and wait some more. I’ve been getting kind of bored of doing glue-ups, so I’m glad this was the last laminating I’ll have to do on this project. I want to integrate 3/4” thick...
It is interesting how our focus can sometimes hide things from plain site (or is it plane site?). Following up the last post in this blog series I finally found a replacement #5 for my broken one. I found it in a bunch of tools and was so focused on the #5 that I didn’t really pay much attention to the rest of the things, but took it as a whole figuring I can always use an extra tool or 2, or sell some to recoup the expense. One of those things I was planning on restoring and rese...
When working on my various woodworking projects I found times that I had to glue odd joints and really didn’t have the clamps I needed. The solution to the problem was the development of a clamping block that simplified clamping these uncommon joints. The Universal Clamping Block tool will let you clamp the usual miters and and frames but will also facilitate the clamping of a great variety of other joints that occur in woodworking projects that present special clamping problems. ...
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