I wanted to recreate this Jeff Jewitt finish from Fine Woodworking #157, however the article didn’t list which formula was used. I consulted with Jeff, and it was Transtint Brown Mohogany dye, followed by McCloskeys Walnut stain. McClosky no longer makes stain, but sold to Valspar / Cabot. ---So I set out to make a sample board to achieve the rich, dark color I was after. ---The top colors are stain only, the middle colors are dye first then stain, and the bottom color is dye only. ...
Here is the plan from my design. It incorporates some Stickley design elements. --The dresser carcases are assembled, including the small divider that separates the top two drawers.--The small dividers are attached with biscuits. To cut the slots, I opened the top two web frames like a clamshell. The web frames were aligned, and clamped together. Then I added an Emerson straightedge clamp, positioned to center the small divider on the web frame. --The ruler on the Emerson clamp helps cen...
Charles Rohlfs Oak Desk, Stickley Ellis Table & Iconic Crafts, Nelson Atkins Art Gallery Kansas City
Wow! I made it, I finally made it, and oh what a surprise to find a museum with Iconic Furniture pieces intermixed with a lot of European, Asian, Native American, Egyptian, and some strange Contemporary Stuff that someone else calls “art”. ————————- WARNING: If you are easily offended by my silly notions of what looks good and is well built, please don’t read any farther. I’m just giving my opinions, that is what ...
I cut the plywood backs to size, and checked the fit. Shiplap backs are nice when they are visible, however the strength of plywood is undeniable. The plywood back fits into a rabbet in the rear leg. The side panels feature floating panels. They are glued only at the center to allow some wood movement. While gluing the side panels, I centered the wood panel for an even reveal on all sides. I cut 1/4” deep dados into the 1/2” plywood back. These dados will lo...
Here’s a photo and a description of how I sawed a huge red oak log to get the most quartersawn lumber from it with the least waste. My saw has a 34” capacity at the widest point, but the bolts holding the adjustable guide for the blade reduce that some and I had to use my chainsaw a couple of times to get enough clearance for the widest part of the log. The throat opens to make a 29.5” cut at the widest point. (If you take off part of the lube system) The red lines show t...
End assembly joints are drawbored and pegged with 3/8” walnut pegs. I use this pounding block to set the walnut buttons to the right depth. The buttons conceal slotted screw holes that attach the breadboard ends. Next up is fitting the keyed tenons that connect the two end assemblies.
Here is my setup for cutting half blind dovetails. I use a larger-than-stock 14 degree dovetail bit. I think it makes nicer looking dovetail joints, and they feel much stronger. Here is a link to my blog about the special bit… http://lumberjocks.com/topics/40073-----This is the bit I use, which is a Rockler item. You can still cut these dovetails in one pass with the PC jig. -----I trimmed some aromatic cedar plywood to size and test fit the drawers.-----Grooves were cut for the dra...
I wanted to design an arts and crafts dining table that included arched rails and twin keyed tenons. I like several of the Stickley tables, but wanted something original. I like the feel of Keven Rodel’s Talesien desk, which served as inspiration for this table. The stack of parts is growing… Initial frame assembly… And the tabletop glueup…
It is now time to build the web frames that function as drawer dividers. The web frames are notched around the legs, and I decided to cut the notches with a dado blade. Here is my setup at the tablesaw with sacrificial fences on both the tablesaw and miter gauge. The result was nice crisp corners on the notches. This will be a visible joint at the front of the dresser. A bandsaw could also accomplish the task, but not quite as easily as a dado blade. After cutting pieces to ...
I waxed the dressers with Howards Walnut wax and #0000 steel wool. I tested the difference between sanding with a 1500 grit sanding sponge, and waxing with steel wool – and I prefered the latter. I waxed with the grain, and let the wax dry. Then I buffed it off with a clean lint-free rag. ----- For drawer pull layout I used Scott Collins no-math layout method. My drawer pulls have 2 bolts, 3” on center. -----I made a full-height jig to drill the holes for the machine bo...
- My Journey As A Creative Designer - Woodworking and Beyond - 1781 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 110 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Toy costruction - 106 parts
- Just for Fun... - 98 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- Life as an Amateur Woodworker - 81 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1806 entries
- dbhost - 432 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 397 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- mafe - 307 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- William - 258 entries
- shipwright - 254 entries
- robscastle - 234 entries
- Betsy - 228 entries
- Dave Rutan - 221 entries
- stefang - 221 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 207 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- A Slice of Wood Workshop - 203 entries
- Smitty_Cabinetshop - 195 entries