Here is the plan for the 6 drawer dresser.Rabbeting the back legs for the rear plywood panels. I chose plywood over solid wood for some dimensional stability. The rabbets are stopped 1-1/2” from the bottom of the legs to match the location of the side rails.Mortising for pegs at the side rail locations.Mortising for pegs at the front rail location.Legs complete.Panels were glued up in two stages – first two pairs of 3/4” boards were joined. Then those 10” wide panel...
I started the dresser like I start most of my projects, by laminating up some legs. I am making two dressers, so 8 legs were in order. I cut strips of 3/4” quartersawn red oak, and resawed a few of them. I could then glue 3 pieces together to get my leg width. Finally, I glued on 1/4” thick stock to cover my jointlines. After the glue dries, I plane the thickness of these veneers to about 3/32”. That way, I get quartersawn grain on all 4 sides. I then milled s...
Top finished Frame assembled Four-inch long T30 lags secure the top timbers. Laminated or not? By laying out my jointlines carefully, I was able to laminate some 8/4 and 5/4 together. The glueline is at the angle of the timber, so it is not visible. In addition, I laminated some thin veneers on both sides. Back to the project page… http://lumberjocks.com/projects/71281
End assembly joints are drawbored and pegged with 3/8” walnut pegs. I use this pounding block to set the walnut buttons to the right depth. The buttons conceal slotted screw holes that attach the breadboard ends. Next up is fitting the keyed tenons that connect the two end assemblies.
I wanted to design an arts and crafts dining table that included arched rails and twin keyed tenons. I like several of the Stickley tables, but wanted something original. I like the feel of Keven Rodel’s Talesien desk, which served as inspiration for this table. The stack of parts is growing… Initial frame assembly… And the tabletop glueup…
Charles Rohlfs Oak Desk, Stickley Ellis Table & Iconic Crafts, Nelson Atkins Art Gallery Kansas City
Wow! I made it, I finally made it, and oh what a surprise to find a museum with Iconic Furniture pieces intermixed with a lot of European, Asian, Native American, Egyptian, and some strange Contemporary Stuff that someone else calls “art”. ————————- WARNING: If you are easily offended by my silly notions of what looks good and is well built, please don’t read any farther. I’m just giving my opinions, that is what ...
The table assembly is now complete. Since the leaves store in the table, the aprons needed to be hinged. I used short piano (continuous) hinges from hardware source.com. The hinges are 4.5” long, and lock at 90 degrees, similar to jewlery box hinges. I used inset rare earth magnets to lock the hinged aprons in there in-use positions. Felt lines the frame, which creates a nice little nest for the leaves. The table extends to accept two 12” leaves v...
Here’s a photo and a description of how I sawed a huge red oak log to get the most quartersawn lumber from it with the least waste. My saw has a 34” capacity at the widest point, but the bolts holding the adjustable guide for the blade reduce that some and I had to use my chainsaw a couple of times to get enough clearance for the widest part of the log. The throat opens to make a 29.5” cut at the widest point. (If you take off part of the lube system) The red lines show t...
I am finally getting proficient with Google Sketchup version 8. Here is my version of a craftsman style TV console. It is halfway done at this point, however the Sketchup program was very helpful in getting the proportions pleasing to the eye. Especially shaping and sizing the corbels. I printed the corbel component, and enlarged them to scale. By simply taping the pattern on my workpiece I was easily able to cut and sand the corbels. Cheers
I finally had a day off, so I chopped up the messed up lock-mitered legs by setting the blade right up against the fence at a 45 degree angle. I was able to push the legs through with the help of a featherboard to be as safe as possible. I chopped a bit off each side, but I think the next version will be much better, even if they’re up to 1/2” smaller on each face. I started to run the freshly liberated faces through the table saw to reestablish fresh mitered edges to prepare f...
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