This is how the Morris chair looks at this stage.-----I wanted to drill all the 5/8” holes for the backrest assembly before the glueup. It seems like this step would be easy to forget, so I’ll take care of it now. -----There are a lot of odds and ends to take care of before glueup, including easing edges of the parts at the router table. -----Now the side assembly can be dry fit. -----Note that the angled top side rails are 1/4” taller than the shoulders of the leg tenon...
Here is where the project is at currently.-----Before I angle the top side rails, I mark the height of the small tenon.-----Then I trim away the excess tenon at the bandsaw. -----Fitting the small tenon into the back leg mortises. -----The joint looks a little peculiar at this point because the top rails have not been angled yet. -----With the frame dry fit I can measure the height of the side slats. -----With the repeater set up on my miter saw, I cut the 10 slats to the same length. --...
Here is the project at hand, a slant arm Morris Chair. I am working off plans from the Popular Woodworking April 2011 issue, which I recommend you buy. The Author is Robert Lang. He posted a free diagram to Sketchup, but with this detailed of a project, you will want to order the back issue. My techniques differ from Robert’s methods significantly, so I will try to elaborate along the way. -----I like to start by laminating the legs for quartersawn figure on all four sides. ...
When I started out working with wood, it was a chore to find any information. I went to used book stores and bought anything that might help and asked any woodworkers I knew. Then Fine Woodworking came along and now the internet. Lumberjocks is the best help I’ve found. There are always several guys who have gone through the same problem.Now, I’m working on 15 chairs. There have been three difficult parts. The curved back, the back legs, and the chair bottom. I’m curre...
First a plywood base was cut to shape. It has (4) 1” holes to let air escape from the foam quickly. Then 2” thick medium density foam is cut 1/2” oversized in all directions. The foam is cut to shape on the bandsaw, and held in place with spray foam. Here, high-loft Dacron is stretched over the foam and stapled in place. -----Next, goat leather is stretched over the Dacron, and stapled in place. Caden did a nice job with the pneumatic stapler. -----Here Caden is ins...
The seat rails are notched as they intersect in the rear legs.-----Backrest glueup…-----Parts waiting to be assembled.-----Front leg assembly glued up. ----- Seat rail glueup.-----Wiping on the Transtint brown mohogany dye makes the white oak pop. Next up will be stain, lacquer, and leather upholstery.
I wanted to recreate this Jeff Jewitt finish from Fine Woodworking #157, however the article didn’t list which formula was used. I consulted with Jeff, and it was Transtint Brown Mohogany dye, followed by McCloskeys Walnut stain. McClosky no longer makes stain, but sold to Valspar / Cabot. ---So I set out to make a sample board to achieve the rich, dark color I was after. ---The top colors are stain only, the middle colors are dye first then stain, and the bottom color is dye only. ...
Bought the knife blanks on eBay. Very thin and very sharp .. Cut fast and easy on my band saw with a new 1/4” blade. Finish is Seedlac shellac Good way to spend a few hours in the shop.
I have been searching around the internet for a wall clock that I like, I have been able to find clocks that have some design features I like but not one that reached out and grabbed me. This one from Klockit came the closest, I don’t care for the choice of wood or the finish but I can change these things. There aren’t any plans as the clock is only available in kit form. The Klockit website shows a finished Size: 13 1/4”H x 13 1/2”W x 5 1/2”D, I’m thinking these dime...
More ProgressI started the day out by planing the remaining miter keys. The trick is plane down from the corner to avoid blowing out the grain. PanelI picked stock for the panel lid and resawed it to around 3/8”. Yesterday I bought a new blade for cutting the miter keys. I did not have a flat ground blade and wanted one for the miter keys. I used it for cutting the panel grooves and a little ripping. Nice so far.I offset the groove so that I can rabbet the bottom of the panel...
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