Visit my website at www.sawdustinn.com or on Facebook! It took 10 hours to resaw the 1 1/4″ thick slabs into three thinner panels and then plane them to the finished 1/4″ thickness. In total, I cut 21 panels that will become inserts for the side and back assemblies. The quarter-sawn panels have some beautiful medullary ray patterns! Panels for the side assembliesI also planed the stiles and rails down to 3/4″ thick, then the cut them to width and length. The next step was to ...
Visit my website at www.sawdustinn.com or on Facebook! Introduction – February 2015The rolltop desk has always had a certain appeal because of the large drawers in the base, multiple cubby holes in the top section and a tambour door. Norm Abram’s version is shown here. I’m using his plans for my build. But with the progression of computers, the rolltop desk is becoming more associated with days past, when managers and business owners relied on a desk like this to keep their paperwork...
Quite a while back, I decided my little townhouse needed a proper dining table, despite not actually having a proper dining room to put it in. I like to entertain friends and enjoy cooking as much as I do woodworking and wished to have somewhere for everyone to sit together. I had little room for a full size table and decided I wanted to build a drop leaf so I could stash the table against a wall or behind the couch and I ended up settling on an ambitious (delusional??) design based strongly ...
I stained and sprayed lacquer, and let the finish cure for 48 hours. Next I waxed the bed with Howard’s Walnut Wax and #0000 steel wool. Then I turned my attention to mounting the drawer pulls. I use Scott Collins “no math” method for laying out the hole locations. Then I offset the holes 3/16” higher than the layout mark, because the threads on the pulls are off-center. I use a full-size jig to mount the four pulls. -----Drawer pulls installed.-----I installed a...
Time to build drawers for the bed.-----I am using a P.C. jig to machine the dovetails. Everything is pretty standard, except the bit I use, which is a larger 14 degree dovetail bit from Rockler. I like to set up two routers – one with a 1/4” straight bit, and one with the dovetail bit. -----I start by hogging out waste with the straight bit. -----The second pass is with the 14 degree dovetail bit. -----I find this two-pass method makes cleaner cuts, with less chance of the wo...
Here is the bed project, which is nearing completion.-----A couple of headboard details remain, one of which is the wedge and strap detail. I tapered the backsplash, and glued the wedges on. Next I use carpet tape to attach the backsplash to a strip of plywood. This serves as a reference edge as I cut the dado for the walnut inlay. -----I use a dado set and miter gauge to cut the shallow dado. I make sure to cut both ends of the backsplash before adjusting the fence. Normally one would ...
The platform support features ten plywood panels that transfer the load straight to the floor. One corner is knocked off, so it won’t be visible under the arched sides of the bed. -----My wife and I worked on assembly of the carcase. We started by gluing and screwing five panels to the side rail. The top of the panels are flush with the groove in the side rails.A lower strip of plywood is then set into notches in the panels. -----Then another strip fills the top notch in the panels...
First a plywood base was cut to shape. It has (4) 1” holes to let air escape from the foam quickly. Then 2” thick medium density foam is cut 1/2” oversized in all directions. The foam is cut to shape on the bandsaw, and held in place with spray foam. Here, high-loft Dacron is stretched over the foam and stapled in place. -----Next, goat leather is stretched over the Dacron, and stapled in place. Caden did a nice job with the pneumatic stapler. -----Here Caden is ins...
The seat rails are notched as they intersect in the rear legs.-----Backrest glueup…-----Parts waiting to be assembled.-----Front leg assembly glued up. ----- Seat rail glueup.-----Wiping on the Transtint brown mohogany dye makes the white oak pop. Next up will be stain, lacquer, and leather upholstery.
I wanted to recreate this Jeff Jewitt finish from Fine Woodworking #157, however the article didn’t list which formula was used. I consulted with Jeff, and it was Transtint Brown Mohogany dye, followed by McCloskeys Walnut stain. McClosky no longer makes stain, but sold to Valspar / Cabot. ---So I set out to make a sample board to achieve the rich, dark color I was after. ---The top colors are stain only, the middle colors are dye first then stain, and the bottom color is dye only. ...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1631 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 97 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- ScrollSaw Information and Resources - 68 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1656 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 397 entries
- dbhost - 390 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- mafe - 279 entries
- William - 258 entries
- shipwright - 227 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 199 entries
- stefang - 198 entries
- robscastle - 188 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 188 entries
- Rustic - 188 entries
- Chris Davis - 184 entries