With the two side assemblies glued together, I can now check the fit of the ladder back. -----Once you get the armrests fit, everything else seems to come pretty easy on this project. -----Here is a look at the beveled through tenons in the armrest.-----A 1/4” dowel secures the mortise and tenon joint. This is a fairly deep hole, and is best drilled with a brad point bit. Test the fit of your dowel stock in a scrap board, as a snug fit is key here. Hopefully you have glued the armr...
Here I am building a small ottoman to compliment the Morris Chair. -----The ottoman legs were laminated with thin veneers. As with the chair, I used 1/4” thick veneer strips that are later planed down to 3/32” thickness. -----The ottoman legs are planed to their final size of 1-3/4” square, and mortised to receive 1/2” thick tenons. -----I do an initial assembly to see how the joints fit. Everything is scaled down on the ottoman, compared to the Morris chair. Th...
After mounting the slides, I used carpet tape to temporarily attach the drawer fronts. Slides are Centerline 757’s, and mounting is the same as my dresser project here… http://lumberjocks.com/pintodeluxe/blog/34281 -----Drawer fronts installed with 4 screws each.-----Since the drawers are graduated from 6” to 9”, I made a full sized pattern for the largest drawer. Then I marked the size of the other drawers, and used those lines to lay out all drawer pull holes o...
Here is where the project is at currently.-----Before I angle the top side rails, I mark the height of the small tenon.-----Then I trim away the excess tenon at the bandsaw. -----Fitting the small tenon into the back leg mortises. -----The joint looks a little peculiar at this point because the top rails have not been angled yet. -----With the frame dry fit I can measure the height of the side slats. -----With the repeater set up on my miter saw, I cut the 10 slats to the same length. --...
Here is the plan for the 6 drawer dresser.Rabbeting the back legs for the rear plywood panels. I chose plywood over solid wood for some dimensional stability. The rabbets are stopped 1-1/2” from the bottom of the legs to match the location of the side rails.Mortising for pegs at the side rail locations.Mortising for pegs at the front rail location.Legs complete.Panels were glued up in two stages – first two pairs of 3/4” boards were joined. Then those 10” wide panel...
This is the Morris Chair I am building.-----Well it’s time to make the corbels so I cut a tongue on some 1-1/8” thick stock. The tongue is 3/4” wide to fit snugly in the leg dado. -----Once the tongue is cut, I place the corbel blanks in a jig to trace the curved shape. -----Here the shape of the corbel has been transferred to the blanks.-----I rough cut the corbels at the bandsaw, cutting as close to the line as possible.-----Next I pattern rout the corbels to final sha...
Arts and Crafts Entertainment Center / Sideboard #5: Wedge and Strap Backsplash, Trimming Top, and Staining
So this is where we left off with things last time…-----The entertainment center features a wedge and strap backsplash to match my 6 drawer dressers http://lumberjocks.com/projects/79208 -----Basically it is a shallow dado that receives a walnut inlay. I cut tapers on the backsplash first, then glued the wedges back on. I carpet-taped a strip of plywood to the backsplash to give me a straight reference edge to cut the dados (note to self: rip plywood strip before installing dado bla...
I spent some time card scraping and sanding the 1/2” thick panels for the dresser sides. I sharpened a fresh burr on the card scraper so it was cutting quickly. I use it on trouble spots, like tearout from the planer. I setup the tablesaw with a dado set and a sacrificial fence to cut the rabbets on the panels. They are rabbeted on the inside edge, which will produce a flat panel look on the outside of the dresser. I could have used plywood, but it can be tough to find quartersawn ...
This is how the Morris chair looks at this stage.-----I wanted to drill all the 5/8” holes for the backrest assembly before the glueup. It seems like this step would be easy to forget, so I’ll take care of it now. -----There are a lot of odds and ends to take care of before glueup, including easing edges of the parts at the router table. -----Now the side assembly can be dry fit. -----Note that the angled top side rails are 1/4” taller than the shoulders of the leg tenon...
I sprayed the chair with Rodda #19 stain, which I thin with a splash of mineral spirits.-----After the chair had dried for 24-48 hours I sprayed Rudd lacquer (Satin sheen), which I strain and thin 20% with lacquer thinner. After the first coat I sanded with 320 grit soft sponges, and cleaned the dust with cheese cloth (not tack cloth) and compressed air. -----After the second coat I wet sanded with 1500 grit soft sponges. The whole chair only took 15-20 minutes to wet sand. -----The Rudd ...
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