I wanted to recreate this Jeff Jewitt finish from Fine Woodworking #157, however the article didn’t list which formula was used. I consulted with Jeff, and it was Transtint Brown Mohogany dye, followed by McCloskeys Walnut stain. McClosky no longer makes stain, but sold to Valspar / Cabot. ---So I set out to make a sample board to achieve the rich, dark color I was after. ---The top colors are stain only, the middle colors are dye first then stain, and the bottom color is dye only. ...
I just finished editing my most recent video—this one featuring Boston-based furniture maker John Fox. I was fortunate to be able to capture this unique, inside look at his wood selection process. (5 Minute Video) Video Link Here: John Reed Fox: How a Master Artisan Selects Wood In this video, I was able to film master furniture maker John Fox collaborate with fine-hardwood dealers, Rick and Brian Hearne, as he searches from among Hearne Hardwood’s 1,000,000 board feet of to...
I cut the plywood backs to size, and checked the fit. Shiplap backs are nice when they are visible, however the strength of plywood is undeniable. The plywood back fits into a rabbet in the rear leg. The side panels feature floating panels. They are glued only at the center to allow some wood movement. While gluing the side panels, I centered the wood panel for an even reveal on all sides. I cut 1/4” deep dados into the 1/2” plywood back. These dados will lo...
I wanted to design an arts and crafts dining table that included arched rails and twin keyed tenons. I like several of the Stickley tables, but wanted something original. I like the feel of Keven Rodel’s Talesien desk, which served as inspiration for this table. The stack of parts is growing… Initial frame assembly… And the tabletop glueup…
Here is my setup for cutting half blind dovetails. I use a larger-than-stock 14 degree dovetail bit. I think it makes nicer looking dovetail joints, and they feel much stronger. Here is a link to my blog about the special bit… http://lumberjocks.com/topics/40073-----This is the bit I use, which is a Rockler item. You can still cut these dovetails in one pass with the PC jig. -----I trimmed some aromatic cedar plywood to size and test fit the drawers.-----Grooves were cut for the dra...
I waxed the dressers with Howards Walnut wax and #0000 steel wool. I tested the difference between sanding with a 1500 grit sanding sponge, and waxing with steel wool – and I prefered the latter. I waxed with the grain, and let the wax dry. Then I buffed it off with a clean lint-free rag. ----- For drawer pull layout I used Scott Collins no-math layout method. My drawer pulls have 2 bolts, 3” on center. -----I made a full-height jig to drill the holes for the machine bo...
Here is the next project, an entertainment center that is reminiscent of a Stickley sideboard. The central slat detail gives a nod to Kevin Rodel. The backsplash features my “wedge and strap” detail, also found on my A&C dressers. ----- Leg blanks are laminated from 3/4” stock. Next I add 1/4” thick veneers on two sides. Even though the finished veneers will only be 3/32” thick, I leave them 1/4” thick for now. I find that 1/4” stri...
With the top built, it was time to turn my attention to the backsplash inlay and wedge detail. ----I cut a double sided taper on the backsplash piece using a tapering jig at the tablesaw. ----I saved my offcuts to make wedge shapes. The wedges were glued back onto the backsplash. I was careful to place the wedge in its original position so the grain would align. ---- The backsplash is carpet taped to a strip of MDF. This creates a straight reference point to cut shallow dados for m...
If I have more that 2 parts to shape, I will make a template out of mdf. I prefer a nice solid jig made from 3/4” mdf with toggle clamps, however since I only had 4 lower side rails to make I kept it simple. After rough cutting the curve at the bandsaw, I used a 1/4” thick template carpet-taped to my workpiece. A pattern bit mounted in the router table makes quick work of cutting the gentle curves. I try to rout “downhill” on curved pieces. In other words,...
Here is the project at hand, a slant arm Morris Chair. I am working off plans from the Popular Woodworking April 2011 issue, which I recommend you buy. The Author is Robert Lang. He posted a free diagram to Sketchup, but with this detailed of a project, you will want to order the back issue. My techniques differ from Robert’s methods significantly, so I will try to elaborate along the way. -----I like to start by laminating the legs for quartersawn figure on all four sides. ...
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