I wanted to recreate this Jeff Jewitt finish from Fine Woodworking #157, however the article didn’t list which formula was used. I consulted with Jeff, and it was Transtint Brown Mohogany dye, followed by McCloskeys Walnut stain. McClosky no longer makes stain, but sold to Valspar / Cabot. ---So I set out to make a sample board to achieve the rich, dark color I was after. ---The top colors are stain only, the middle colors are dye first then stain, and the bottom color is dye only. ...
I just finished editing my most recent video—this one featuring Boston-based furniture maker John Fox. I was fortunate to be able to capture this unique, inside look at his wood selection process. (5 Minute Video) Video Link Here: John Reed Fox: How a Master Artisan Selects Wood In this video, I was able to film master furniture maker John Fox collaborate with fine-hardwood dealers, Rick and Brian Hearne, as he searches from among Hearne Hardwood’s 1,000,000 board feet of to...
I cut the plywood backs to size, and checked the fit. Shiplap backs are nice when they are visible, however the strength of plywood is undeniable. The plywood back fits into a rabbet in the rear leg. The side panels feature floating panels. They are glued only at the center to allow some wood movement. While gluing the side panels, I centered the wood panel for an even reveal on all sides. I cut 1/4” deep dados into the 1/2” plywood back. These dados will lo...
Here is my setup for cutting half blind dovetails. I use a larger-than-stock 14 degree dovetail bit. I think it makes nicer looking dovetail joints, and they feel much stronger. Here is a link to my blog about the special bit… http://lumberjocks.com/topics/40073-----This is the bit I use, which is a Rockler item. You can still cut these dovetails in one pass with the PC jig. -----I trimmed some aromatic cedar plywood to size and test fit the drawers.-----Grooves were cut for the dra...
I wanted to design an arts and crafts dining table that included arched rails and twin keyed tenons. I like several of the Stickley tables, but wanted something original. I like the feel of Keven Rodel’s Talesien desk, which served as inspiration for this table. The stack of parts is growing… Initial frame assembly… And the tabletop glueup…
I waxed the dressers with Howards Walnut wax and #0000 steel wool. I tested the difference between sanding with a 1500 grit sanding sponge, and waxing with steel wool – and I prefered the latter. I waxed with the grain, and let the wax dry. Then I buffed it off with a clean lint-free rag. ----- For drawer pull layout I used Scott Collins no-math layout method. My drawer pulls have 2 bolts, 3” on center. -----I made a full-height jig to drill the holes for the machine bo...
Here is the next project, an entertainment center that is reminiscent of a Stickley sideboard. The central slat detail gives a nod to Kevin Rodel. The backsplash features my “wedge and strap” detail, also found on my A&C dressers. ----- Leg blanks are laminated from 3/4” stock. Next I add 1/4” thick veneers on two sides. Even though the finished veneers will only be 3/32” thick, I leave them 1/4” thick for now. I find that 1/4” stri...
With the top built, it was time to turn my attention to the backsplash inlay and wedge detail. ----I cut a double sided taper on the backsplash piece using a tapering jig at the tablesaw. ----I saved my offcuts to make wedge shapes. The wedges were glued back onto the backsplash. I was careful to place the wedge in its original position so the grain would align. ---- The backsplash is carpet taped to a strip of MDF. This creates a straight reference point to cut shallow dados for m...
Here is the project at hand, a slant arm Morris Chair. I am working off plans from the Popular Woodworking April 2011 issue, which I recommend you buy. The Author is Robert Lang. He posted a free diagram to Sketchup, but with this detailed of a project, you will want to order the back issue. My techniques differ from Robert’s methods significantly, so I will try to elaborate along the way. -----I like to start by laminating the legs for quartersawn figure on all four sides. ...
If I have more that 2 parts to shape, I will make a template out of mdf. I prefer a nice solid jig made from 3/4” mdf with toggle clamps, however since I only had 4 lower side rails to make I kept it simple. After rough cutting the curve at the bandsaw, I used a 1/4” thick template carpet-taped to my workpiece. A pattern bit mounted in the router table makes quick work of cutting the gentle curves. I try to rout “downhill” on curved pieces. In other words,...
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