It is interesting that the storm knocked over almost exclusively the red oaks. I lost 6-10 large (60-80 yr old) trees, 18-24” in diameter. So the question is, what do you do with vast quantities of red oak? It’s not the most popular wood, but it has some good qualities. These are just a few of the trees I lost. It’s a mess in there.
I wanted to recreate this Jeff Jewitt finish from Fine Woodworking #157, however the article didn’t list which formula was used. I consulted with Jeff, and it was Transtint Brown Mohogany dye, followed by McCloskeys Walnut stain. McClosky no longer makes stain, but sold to Valspar / Cabot. ---So I set out to make a sample board to achieve the rich, dark color I was after. ---The top colors are stain only, the middle colors are dye first then stain, and the bottom color is dye only. ...
I just finished editing my most recent video—this one featuring Boston-based furniture maker John Fox. I was fortunate to be able to capture this unique, inside look at his wood selection process. (5 Minute Video) Video Link Here: John Reed Fox: How a Master Artisan Selects Wood In this video, I was able to film master furniture maker John Fox collaborate with fine-hardwood dealers, Rick and Brian Hearne, as he searches from among Hearne Hardwood’s 1,000,000 board feet of to...
I waxed the dressers with Howards Walnut wax and #0000 steel wool. I tested the difference between sanding with a 1500 grit sanding sponge, and waxing with steel wool – and I prefered the latter. I waxed with the grain, and let the wax dry. Then I buffed it off with a clean lint-free rag. ----- For drawer pull layout I used Scott Collins no-math layout method. My drawer pulls have 2 bolts, 3” on center. -----I made a full-height jig to drill the holes for the machine bo...
Here is the next project, an entertainment center that is reminiscent of a Stickley sideboard. The central slat detail gives a nod to Kevin Rodel. The backsplash features my “wedge and strap” detail, also found on my A&C dressers. ----- Leg blanks are laminated from 3/4” stock. Next I add 1/4” thick veneers on two sides. Even though the finished veneers will only be 3/32” thick, I leave them 1/4” thick for now. I find that 1/4” stri...
If I have more that 2 parts to shape, I will make a template out of mdf. I prefer a nice solid jig made from 3/4” mdf with toggle clamps, however since I only had 4 lower side rails to make I kept it simple. After rough cutting the curve at the bandsaw, I used a 1/4” thick template carpet-taped to my workpiece. A pattern bit mounted in the router table makes quick work of cutting the gentle curves. I try to rout “downhill” on curved pieces. In other words,...
I cut the plywood backs to size, and checked the fit. Shiplap backs are nice when they are visible, however the strength of plywood is undeniable. The plywood back fits into a rabbet in the rear leg. The side panels feature floating panels. They are glued only at the center to allow some wood movement. While gluing the side panels, I centered the wood panel for an even reveal on all sides. I cut 1/4” deep dados into the 1/2” plywood back. These dados will lo...
Arts and Crafts Entertainment Center / Sideboard #5: Wedge and Strap Backsplash, Trimming Top, and Staining
So this is where we left off with things last time…-----The entertainment center features a wedge and strap backsplash to match my 6 drawer dressers http://lumberjocks.com/projects/79208 -----Basically it is a shallow dado that receives a walnut inlay. I cut tapers on the backsplash first, then glued the wedges back on. I carpet-taped a strip of plywood to the backsplash to give me a straight reference edge to cut the dados (note to self: rip mdf strip before installing dado blade!)...
Here is the plan for the 6 drawer dresser.Rabbeting the back legs for the rear plywood panels. I chose plywood over solid wood for some dimensional stability. The rabbets are stopped 1-1/2” from the bottom of the legs to match the location of the side rails.Mortising for pegs at the side rail locations.Mortising for pegs at the front rail location.Legs complete.Panels were glued up in two stages – first two pairs of 3/4” boards were joined. Then those 10” wide panel...
I spent some time card scraping and sanding the 1/2” thick panels for the dresser sides. I sharpened a fresh burr on the card scraper so it was cutting quickly. I use it on trouble spots, like tearout from the planer. I setup the tablesaw with a dado set and a sacrificial fence to cut the rabbets on the panels. They are rabbeted on the inside edge, which will produce a flat panel look on the outside of the dresser. I could have used plywood, but it can be tough to find quartersawn ...
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