It is interesting that the storm knocked over almost exclusively the red oaks. I lost 6-10 large (60-80 yr old) trees, 18-24” in diameter. So the question is, what do you do with vast quantities of red oak? It’s not the most popular wood, but it has some good qualities. These are just a few of the trees I lost. It’s a mess in there.
I wanted to recreate this Jeff Jewitt finish from Fine Woodworking #157, however the article didn’t list which formula was used. I consulted with Jeff, and it was Transtint Brown Mohogany dye, followed by McCloskeys Walnut stain. McClosky no longer makes stain, but sold to Valspar / Cabot. ---So I set out to make a sample board to achieve the rich, dark color I was after. ---The top colors are stain only, the middle colors are dye first then stain, and the bottom color is dye only. ...
I just finished editing my most recent video—this one featuring Boston-based furniture maker John Fox. I was fortunate to be able to capture this unique, inside look at his wood selection process. (5 Minute Video) Video Link Here: John Reed Fox: How a Master Artisan Selects Wood In this video, I was able to film master furniture maker John Fox collaborate with fine-hardwood dealers, Rick and Brian Hearne, as he searches from among Hearne Hardwood’s 1,000,000 board feet of to...
Here is the next project, an entertainment center that is reminiscent of a Stickley sideboard. The central slat detail gives a nod to Kevin Rodel. The backsplash features my “wedge and strap” detail, also found on my A&C dressers. ----- Leg blanks are laminated from 3/4” stock. Next I add 1/4” thick veneers on two sides. Even though the finished veneers will only be 3/32” thick, I leave them 1/4” thick for now. I find that 1/4” stri...
This is the Morris Chair I am building.-----Well it’s time to make the corbels so I cut a tongue on some 1-1/8” thick stock. The tongue is 3/4” wide to fit snugly in the leg dado. -----Once the tongue is cut, I place the corbel blanks in a jig to trace the curved shape. -----Here the shape of the corbel has been transferred to the blanks.-----I rough cut the corbels at the bandsaw, cutting as close to the line as possible.-----Next I pattern rout the corbels to final sha...
I waxed the dressers with Howards Walnut wax and #0000 steel wool. I tested the difference between sanding with a 1500 grit sanding sponge, and waxing with steel wool – and I prefered the latter. I waxed with the grain, and let the wax dry. Then I buffed it off with a clean lint-free rag. ----- For drawer pull layout I used Scott Collins no-math layout method. My drawer pulls have 2 bolts, 3” on center. -----I made a full-height jig to drill the holes for the machine bo...
With the two side assemblies glued together, I can now check the fit of the ladder back. -----Once you get the armrests fit, everything else seems to come pretty easy on this project. -----Here is a look at the beveled through tenons in the armrest.-----A 1/4” dowel secures the mortise and tenon joint. This is a fairly deep hole, and is best drilled with a brad point bit. Test the fit of your dowel stock in a scrap board, as a snug fit is key here. Hopefully you have glued the armr...
Here I am building a small ottoman to compliment the Morris Chair. -----The ottoman legs were laminated with thin veneers. As with the chair, I used 1/4” thick veneer strips that are later planed down to 3/32” thickness. -----The ottoman legs are planed to their final size of 1-3/4” square, and mortised to receive 1/2” thick tenons. -----I do an initial assembly to see how the joints fit. Everything is scaled down on the ottoman, compared to the Morris chair. Th...
Here is where the project is at currently.-----Before I angle the top side rails, I mark the height of the small tenon.-----Then I trim away the excess tenon at the bandsaw. -----Fitting the small tenon into the back leg mortises. -----The joint looks a little peculiar at this point because the top rails have not been angled yet. -----With the frame dry fit I can measure the height of the side slats. -----With the repeater set up on my miter saw, I cut the 10 slats to the same length. --...
I sprayed the chair with Rodda #19 stain, which I thin with a splash of mineral spirits.-----After the chair had dried for 24-48 hours I sprayed Rudd lacquer (Satin sheen), which I strain and thin 20% with lacquer thinner. After the first coat I sanded with 320 grit soft sponges, and cleaned the dust with cheese cloth (not tack cloth) and compressed air. -----After the second coat I wet sanded with 1500 grit soft sponges. The whole chair only took 15-20 minutes to wet sand. -----The Rudd ...
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