I sprayed the chair with Rodda #19 stain, which I thin with a splash of mineral spirits.-----After the chair had dried for 24-48 hours I sprayed Rudd lacquer (Satin sheen), which I strain and thin 20% with lacquer thinner. After the first coat I sanded with 320 grit soft sponges, and cleaned the dust with cheese cloth (not tack cloth) and compressed air. -----After the second coat I wet sanded with 1500 grit soft sponges. The whole chair only took 15-20 minutes to wet sand. -----The Rudd ...
Here I am building a small ottoman to compliment the Morris Chair. -----The ottoman legs were laminated with thin veneers. As with the chair, I used 1/4” thick veneer strips that are later planed down to 3/32” thickness. -----The ottoman legs are planed to their final size of 1-3/4” square, and mortised to receive 1/2” thick tenons. -----I do an initial assembly to see how the joints fit. Everything is scaled down on the ottoman, compared to the Morris chair. Th...
With the two side assemblies glued together, I can now check the fit of the ladder back. -----Once you get the armrests fit, everything else seems to come pretty easy on this project. -----Here is a look at the beveled through tenons in the armrest.-----A 1/4” dowel secures the mortise and tenon joint. This is a fairly deep hole, and is best drilled with a brad point bit. Test the fit of your dowel stock in a scrap board, as a snug fit is key here. Hopefully you have glued the armr...
This is the Morris Chair I am building.-----Well it’s time to make the corbels so I cut a tongue on some 1-1/8” thick stock. The tongue is 3/4” wide to fit snugly in the leg dado. -----Once the tongue is cut, I place the corbel blanks in a jig to trace the curved shape. -----Here the shape of the corbel has been transferred to the blanks.-----I rough cut the corbels at the bandsaw, cutting as close to the line as possible.-----Next I pattern rout the corbels to final sha...
This is how the Morris chair looks at this stage.-----I wanted to drill all the 5/8” holes for the backrest assembly before the glueup. It seems like this step would be easy to forget, so I’ll take care of it now. -----There are a lot of odds and ends to take care of before glueup, including easing edges of the parts at the router table. -----Now the side assembly can be dry fit. -----Note that the angled top side rails are 1/4” taller than the shoulders of the leg tenon...
Here is where the project is at currently.-----Before I angle the top side rails, I mark the height of the small tenon.-----Then I trim away the excess tenon at the bandsaw. -----Fitting the small tenon into the back leg mortises. -----The joint looks a little peculiar at this point because the top rails have not been angled yet. -----With the frame dry fit I can measure the height of the side slats. -----With the repeater set up on my miter saw, I cut the 10 slats to the same length. --...
Here is the project at hand, a slant arm Morris Chair. I am working off plans from the Popular Woodworking April 2011 issue, which I recommend you buy. The Author is Robert Lang. He posted a free diagram to Sketchup, but with this detailed of a project, you will want to order the back issue. My techniques differ from Robert’s methods significantly, so I will try to elaborate along the way. -----I like to start by laminating the legs for quartersawn figure on all four sides. ...
Awhile back i cut down some oak trees for a friend. I took the firewood for myself and we loaded up the trunks on a 2 ton truck and hauled them to a mill for his personal use. When I recently started my own little woodshop he gave me some of that lumber to get started with. Since we are all natural born tightwads around here he gave me the worst bottom of the barrel lumber out of the whole bunch. But I’m not complaining about free material. Today I decided to see what I could get o...
First a plywood base was cut to shape. It has (4) 1” holes to let air escape from the foam quickly. Then 2” thick medium density foam is cut 1/2” oversized in all directions. The foam is cut to shape on the bandsaw, and held in place with spray foam. Here, high-loft Dacron is stretched over the foam and stapled in place. -----Next, goat leather is stretched over the Dacron, and stapled in place. Caden did a nice job with the pneumatic stapler. -----Here Caden is ins...
The seat rails are notched as they intersect in the rear legs.-----Backrest glueup…-----Parts waiting to be assembled.-----Front leg assembly glued up. ----- Seat rail glueup.-----Wiping on the Transtint brown mohogany dye makes the white oak pop. Next up will be stain, lacquer, and leather upholstery.
- My Journey As A Creative Designer - Woodworking and Beyond - 1742 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 105 parts
- Just for Fun... - 97 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- Life as an Amateur Woodworker - 79 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1767 entries
- dbhost - 418 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 397 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- mafe - 304 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- William - 258 entries
- shipwright - 245 entries
- Betsy - 228 entries
- stefang - 220 entries
- robscastle - 218 entries
- Dave Rutan - 213 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 207 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Smitty_Cabinetshop - 193 entries
- A Slice of Wood Workshop - 190 entries