With the top built, it was time to turn my attention to the backsplash inlay and wedge detail. ----I cut a double sided taper on the backsplash piece using a tapering jig at the tablesaw. ----I saved my offcuts to make wedge shapes. The wedges were glued back onto the backsplash. I was careful to place the wedge in its original position so the grain would align. ---- The backsplash is carpet taped to a strip of MDF. This creates a straight reference point to cut shallow dados for m...
Here is the plan from my design. It incorporates some Stickley design elements. --The dresser carcases are assembled, including the small divider that separates the top two drawers.--The small dividers are attached with biscuits. To cut the slots, I opened the top two web frames like a clamshell. The web frames were aligned, and clamped together. Then I added an Emerson straightedge clamp, positioned to center the small divider on the web frame. --The ruler on the Emerson clamp helps cen...
It is now time to build the web frames that function as drawer dividers. The web frames are notched around the legs, and I decided to cut the notches with a dado blade. Here is my setup at the tablesaw with sacrificial fences on both the tablesaw and miter gauge. The result was nice crisp corners on the notches. This will be a visible joint at the front of the dresser. A bandsaw could also accomplish the task, but not quite as easily as a dado blade. After cutting pieces to ...
I spent some time card scraping and sanding the 1/2” thick panels for the dresser sides. I sharpened a fresh burr on the card scraper so it was cutting quickly. I use it on trouble spots, like tearout from the planer. I setup the tablesaw with a dado set and a sacrificial fence to cut the rabbets on the panels. They are rabbeted on the inside edge, which will produce a flat panel look on the outside of the dresser. I could have used plywood, but it can be tough to find quartersawn ...
I started the dresser like I start most of my projects, by laminating up some legs. I am making two dressers, so 8 legs were in order. I cut strips of 3/4” quartersawn red oak, and resawed a few of them. I could then glue 3 pieces together to get my leg width. Finally, I glued on 1/4” thick stock to cover my jointlines. After the glue dries, I plane the thickness of these veneers to about 3/32”. That way, I get quartersawn grain on all 4 sides. I then milled s...
The table assembly is now complete. Since the leaves store in the table, the aprons needed to be hinged. I used short piano (continuous) hinges from hardware source.com. The hinges are 4.5” long, and lock at 90 degrees, similar to jewlery box hinges. I used inset rare earth magnets to lock the hinged aprons in there in-use positions. Felt lines the frame, which creates a nice little nest for the leaves. The table extends to accept two 12” leaves v...
Here’s a photo and a description of how I sawed a huge red oak log to get the most quartersawn lumber from it with the least waste. My saw has a 34” capacity at the widest point, but the bolts holding the adjustable guide for the blade reduce that some and I had to use my chainsaw a couple of times to get enough clearance for the widest part of the log. The throat opens to make a 29.5” cut at the widest point. (If you take off part of the lube system) The red lines show t...
Here’s a small part of the lumber I cut from a 48” X 4’ red oak log. I had to split it before it would fit on my sawmill. The red oak is stacked on a few yellow poplar boards I cut the same day. This is 1/2 the short 4 ft log. Here’s a closer look at the boards on the top of the stack. There were 5 boards cut from the top and bottom of the log that were riff sawn and the rest were quartersawn with beautiful flecks in the wood. I ended up with 10 riff sawn boar...
It’s Been a while since I’ve split logs. When I was growing up, I lived in a farmhouse that was heated by a furnace and a fireplace. I cut, split, and stacked a lot of wood. I got 3 big red oak logs and one big sycamore log this week. All 4 are big enough to quartersaw and one is so big, that it has to be split to make it small enough to fit on my sawmill. It got easier after I made some big hard maple wedges. My neighbor across the road lives in a log home that was built in t...
I finally had a day off, so I chopped up the messed up lock-mitered legs by setting the blade right up against the fence at a 45 degree angle. I was able to push the legs through with the help of a featherboard to be as safe as possible. I chopped a bit off each side, but I think the next version will be much better, even if they’re up to 1/2” smaller on each face. I started to run the freshly liberated faces through the table saw to reestablish fresh mitered edges to prepare f...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1563 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 96 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- ScrollSaw Information and Resources - 68 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1588 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 395 entries
- dbhost - 390 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- mafe - 276 entries
- William - 258 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- shipwright - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 199 entries
- stefang - 188 entries
- Rustic - 188 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 181 entries
- Smitty_Cabinetshop - 175 entries