First a plywood base was cut to shape. It has (4) 1” holes to let air escape from the foam quickly. Then 2” thick medium density foam is cut 1/2” oversized in all directions. The foam is cut to shape on the bandsaw, and held in place with spray foam. Here, high-loft Dacron is stretched over the foam and stapled in place. -----Next, goat leather is stretched over the Dacron, and stapled in place. Caden did a nice job with the pneumatic stapler. -----Here Caden is ins...
The seat rails are notched as they intersect in the rear legs.-----Backrest glueup…-----Parts waiting to be assembled.-----Front leg assembly glued up. ----- Seat rail glueup.-----Wiping on the Transtint brown mohogany dye makes the white oak pop. Next up will be stain, lacquer, and leather upholstery.
I wanted to recreate this Jeff Jewitt finish from Fine Woodworking #157, however the article didn’t list which formula was used. I consulted with Jeff, and it was Transtint Brown Mohogany dye, followed by McCloskeys Walnut stain. McClosky no longer makes stain, but sold to Valspar / Cabot. ---So I set out to make a sample board to achieve the rich, dark color I was after. ---The top colors are stain only, the middle colors are dye first then stain, and the bottom color is dye only. ...
After mounting the slides, I used carpet tape to temporarily attach the drawer fronts. Slides are Centerline 757’s, and mounting is the same as my dresser project here… http://lumberjocks.com/pintodeluxe/blog/34281 -----Drawer fronts installed with 4 screws each.-----Since the drawers are graduated from 6” to 9”, I made a full sized pattern for the largest drawer. Then I marked the size of the other drawers, and used those lines to lay out all drawer pull holes o...
Arts and Crafts Entertainment Center / Sideboard #5: Wedge and Strap Backsplash, Trimming Top, and Staining
So this is where we left off with things last time…-----The entertainment center features a wedge and strap backsplash to match my 6 drawer dressers http://lumberjocks.com/projects/79208 -----Basically it is a shallow dado that receives a walnut inlay. I cut tapers on the backsplash first, then glued the wedges back on. I carpet-taped a strip of plywood to the backsplash to give me a straight reference edge to cut the dados (note to self: rip mdf strip before installing dado blade!)...
Here is the next project, an entertainment center that is reminiscent of a Stickley sideboard. The central slat detail gives a nod to Kevin Rodel. The backsplash features my “wedge and strap” detail, also found on my A&C dressers. ----- Leg blanks are laminated from 3/4” stock. Next I add 1/4” thick veneers on two sides. Even though the finished veneers will only be 3/32” thick, I leave them 1/4” thick for now. I find that 1/4” stri...
Here is my setup for cutting half blind dovetails. I use a larger-than-stock 14 degree dovetail bit. I think it makes nicer looking dovetail joints, and they feel much stronger. Here is a link to my blog about the special bit… http://lumberjocks.com/topics/40073-----This is the bit I use, which is a Rockler item. You can still cut these dovetails in one pass with the PC jig. -----I trimmed some aromatic cedar plywood to size and test fit the drawers.-----Grooves were cut for the dra...
It is now time to build the web frames that function as drawer dividers. The web frames are notched around the legs, and I decided to cut the notches with a dado blade. Here is my setup at the tablesaw with sacrificial fences on both the tablesaw and miter gauge. The result was nice crisp corners on the notches. This will be a visible joint at the front of the dresser. A bandsaw could also accomplish the task, but not quite as easily as a dado blade. After cutting pieces to ...
Top finished Frame assembled Four-inch long T30 lags secure the top timbers. Laminated or not? By laying out my jointlines carefully, I was able to laminate some 8/4 and 5/4 together. The glueline is at the angle of the timber, so it is not visible. In addition, I laminated some thin veneers on both sides.
End assembly joints are drawbored and pegged with 3/8” walnut pegs. I use this pounding block to set the walnut buttons to the right depth. The buttons conceal slotted screw holes that attach the breadboard ends. Next up is fitting the keyed tenons that connect the two end assemblies.
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