I sprayed the chair with Rodda #19 stain, which I thin with a splash of mineral spirits.-----After the chair had dried for 24-48 hours I sprayed Rudd lacquer (Satin sheen), which I strain and thin 20% with lacquer thinner. After the first coat I sanded with 320 grit soft sponges, and cleaned the dust with cheese cloth (not tack cloth) and compressed air. -----After the second coat I wet sanded with 1500 grit soft sponges. The whole chair only took 15-20 minutes to wet sand. -----The Rudd ...
Here I am building a small ottoman to compliment the Morris Chair. -----The ottoman legs were laminated with thin veneers. As with the chair, I used 1/4” thick veneer strips that are later planed down to 3/32” thickness. -----The ottoman legs are planed to their final size of 1-3/4” square, and mortised to receive 1/2” thick tenons. -----I do an initial assembly to see how the joints fit. Everything is scaled down on the ottoman, compared to the Morris chair. Th...
I took a leather sewing class to learn how to make the Morris chair cushions. -----The seat cushion and the ottoman cushion require web frames. Here I am milling the half-lap components for the web frames. -----Web frame assemblies are glued together. The seat frame should be sized 1/4” smaller in all directions than the opening in your chair, to allow room for the leather and two layers of batting.-----Corner blocks are added to the large seat cushion for additional strength. -----I...
With the two side assemblies glued together, I can now check the fit of the ladder back. -----Once you get the armrests fit, everything else seems to come pretty easy on this project. -----Here is a look at the beveled through tenons in the armrest.-----A 1/4” dowel secures the mortise and tenon joint. This is a fairly deep hole, and is best drilled with a brad point bit. Test the fit of your dowel stock in a scrap board, as a snug fit is key here. Hopefully you have glued the armr...
This is the Morris Chair I am building.-----Well it’s time to make the corbels so I cut a tongue on some 1-1/8” thick stock. The tongue is 3/4” wide to fit snugly in the leg dado. -----Once the tongue is cut, I place the corbel blanks in a jig to trace the curved shape. -----Here the shape of the corbel has been transferred to the blanks.-----I rough cut the corbels at the bandsaw, cutting as close to the line as possible.-----Next I pattern rout the corbels to final sha...
This is how the Morris chair looks at this stage.-----I wanted to drill all the 5/8” holes for the backrest assembly before the glueup. It seems like this step would be easy to forget, so I’ll take care of it now. -----There are a lot of odds and ends to take care of before glueup, including easing edges of the parts at the router table. -----Now the side assembly can be dry fit. -----Note that the angled top side rails are 1/4” taller than the shoulders of the leg tenon...
Here is where the project is at currently.-----Before I angle the top side rails, I mark the height of the small tenon.-----Then I trim away the excess tenon at the bandsaw. -----Fitting the small tenon into the back leg mortises. -----The joint looks a little peculiar at this point because the top rails have not been angled yet. -----With the frame dry fit I can measure the height of the side slats. -----With the repeater set up on my miter saw, I cut the 10 slats to the same length. --...
Here is the project at hand, a slant arm Morris Chair. I am working off plans from the Popular Woodworking April 2011 issue, which I recommend you buy. The Author is Robert Lang. He posted a free diagram to Sketchup, but with this detailed of a project, you will want to order the back issue. My techniques differ from Robert’s methods significantly, so I will try to elaborate along the way. -----I like to start by laminating the legs for quartersawn figure on all four sides. ...
With the desk frame finished, I move on to installing the drawers.-----Since I am using single undermount slides for the drawers, I installed glide tacks to keep the drawer from tipping. I use wire cutters to trim the tack to about 1/4” long, which makes them easier to install. -----I centered the slide in the drawer opening , and secured it with mounting screws. -----To adjust the drawer height properly, I add a hardwood strip between the drawer bottom and the slide. The hardwood s...
In part 4 of this series I pre-raised the grain, and applied the initial coloring with Transtint Brown Mohogany Dye. When the dye is wet it looks amazing, but quickly dries to a lifeless sheen. -----The drawer fronts were stained before assembly. After the glueup dried overnight, the drawers were lacquered. -----The desk was stained with Varathane Dark Walnut oil based stain. When wet the stain looked great, but it too dried to a grayish cast. Not to worry though, once the lacquer was a...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1485 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 93 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- The Craftsman's Path - 67 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1509 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 394 entries
- dbhost - 390 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- William - 258 entries
- mafe - 240 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- shipwright - 203 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 197 entries
- stefang - 186 entries
- Rustic - 186 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 177 entries
- PurpLev - 163 entries