Well, I got four to mill down into …..something. Set up a plank on the bench, scibed a few lines. I wanted four pieces 3" wide, with whatever was left for other parts. I got four 18” long, and two @ 17” long. Two of the planks, including this one, are 5/4 stock. The other two are just 4/4 stuff. Had the circular saws in from the trunk of the van, and took the larger one down to the shop… I can keep it on the shelf until needed. Made a big mess on the...
At this writing (November 20, 2015) our new shop floor has been in use for several months—she making pots and art, me making more sawdust :). Here’s the result—pretty ordinary-looking, but we both remember the planning and effort whenever we enjoy the warm, solid, level surface under our feet and roll stuff around to make room for projects. CERAMIC STUDIO The “railing” in front of the pottery wheel isn’t a hand-hold. It supports a canvas tar...
With the ceramic studio’s cabinets and work table in place on the completed 2/3 of the shop floor, it was time to finish the complicated “shallow” end, where the plywood-to-concrete clearance tapers to nothing at the northwest corner. Earlier measurements had shown that only a relatively small right triangle based at that corner would need custom tapered PT stringers. The rest of the unfinished 1/3 could be framed with joists hung from a diagonal “rim” joist on...
With the support framing in place it was time to add the floor in 2/3 of the shop area. The other 1/3 would await framing of the low-clearance corner. I had scored 12 sheets of tongue-and-groove 3/4” construction ply off Craigslist. I was a bit worried that the ragged-looking tongues and grooves would require time-consuming rework in order to mate but that turned out not to be an issue—a simple pass with a wire brush and hand saw took care of the minor defects. I started a...
When designing the floor system, because of the large variation in needed support height (1” near the “shallow” end, ~15” near the “deep end”) and the concrete floor’s compound slope, I had decided against using tapered PT joists (2×12 / 2×10 / 2×8 / 2×6…) anchored directly to the concrete floor. Instead, the floor would be supported on 12’ 2×4s whose ends attach to the perimeter using Simpson joist hangers, with ...
Three sides of the shop, shown in the previous blog entry, have existing walls. The fourth side, at the mid-line of the garage, is two steps (12”-15”) above the compound-sloped concrete floor. I built two cripple walls to support those ends of the floor joists—a long straight run between the glu-lam beam’s support columns, and a shorter segmented run near the back doors that is indented to accommodate the french doors’ in-swing. (A few photos are from later ...
Today is one of those days when I debated whether I should blog or not. Yesterday was one of those crazy/busy days when I finished my "work" at 11:30 pm (after being at it pretty much since I got up early in the morning!) I am still looking at 91 emails in my mail box – 31 which aren't open yet – that need attention. Ahh . . . the luxury of being 'self-employed'! :)I say that with a smile because those of you who read regularly know how much ...
I like these routers. The D handle allows for controlled single handed operation of the tool while holding the workpiece with the other. I have 3 of these routers and none of them came with a guide. I wanted a guide for one of them the other day and found myself wishing that I had ordered one, as I was not able to put off the project until I could get one. I decided to order 2 and make 1 so that I could use the router I wanted to use on the project at hand. A radial arm saw will do...
So i reckon i got too excited to get this together so not many pictures but I will try to explain as I can. Sure to be many edits…as i am posting this from memory i will do specifics later. So I left off with dryfitting my leg assemblies, i think. I took those assemblies and mated them to my top slab and aprons with clamps, while in my tight shop that night. I just had to see what it would look like. The next morning drug everything out onto my carport. And put it all together ...
Using an old driver bit I made a counter sink by cutting of the ends and grinding a blunt point on one end, then I filed a flute along the ground edge, I used a cheap bit as its a lot easier to work with and sharpen but a good quality bit may hold a better edge. I found it worked really well with an impact driver a drill driver, high speed low speed, it worked quite well even for large headed screws, dry for yourself to see if you can create one just like mine or even better ! WATCH THE...
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