Last week I finished an outfeed/assembly table and decided that it wasn’t slick enough even after hitting it with 220 grit paper so I decided to finish it so I could sand it higher and give some protection since it will also become a main work area. Traditionally I’ve always used some type of oil-based polyurethane (the yellow stuff) and i’s tough as nails but I didn’t want to make this thing yellow. I used Purebond plywood over the cheap rubbish from Lowes because ...
Old pine should burn and gray at the close of day;Measure, measure, and check for square. Though wise woodworkers at their end know dark walnut stain is fair,Because their sanders had left no pigtails theyDo not go gentle into that good chair. Good woodworkers, the last coat by, cry ‘Varathane’Their dilute poly might protect this day,Measure, measure, and check for square. Wild woodworkers who cut and saw while half aware,And learn, too late, to measure once is to pray,Do...
I had read many times before about the three pillars of a craft: Design, Construction, and Finishing. Let me tell me you, after this experience, I truly realize now and appreciate the amount of effort and knowledge and true craftsmanship that goes into finishing. I posted on multiple forums, read many an article, and watched a veritable slew of finishing videos. Videos about outdoor finishing, videos about varnish finishes, articles about the pros and cons of diluting your polurethane. ...
Since this was my first foray into a proper finish ( the most I’ve done before is a spray lacquer finish ), I decided to make a test board. I put a bunch of test dowel plugs into it and broke it out into a bunch of different sections. I used Varathane Dark Walnut Gel Stain and Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner. Top row is 80 grit, middle row is 150 grit, bottom row is 220 grit. Left to right columns are 2 minute rest time, 4 minute rest time, 6 minute rest time, 8 minute rest tim...
The leg vise chop’s wood is beech (I just have one big thick beech board and so I use it when I need some hardwood). .First some rough cuts: .Then cleaning up: (you can see here template I used to mark curves of the chop) (and this is my cleanup kit) .Ready for parallel guide mortise: .Parallel guide mortise: first saw cut then cleaning with the chisel (and a block of wood as a guide). .Dry fit: .Drawboring: .Closeups of drawboring results:...
Here is a really easy, simple, and cheap way to take your finish one step further and get the ultra finish. Ok so maybe all your doing is giving it one last rub down, but take the extra step to get a nice clean and smooth final finish. Click here for the video.
hello everyone, I am new to woodworking. I am building a table, one like I saw in apple store.after a month of long struggle I finally got to the finishing stage.I am not a big fan of oil polyurethane because of its shine and non-woody feel of it.but I thought I might make it work if I applied very thin layer.and wiped it with cloth instead of brush. well. it didn’t work out very well. not happy with the outcome. shinny and plasticky does anyone know how to get that effect of f...
The scales were on the bottom of the jar, and no more air bubbles were released after adding some more pressure, so I took out the scales to dry. They’re noticeably heavier. You can either replace the lid with a new one, or just re-pressurize the jar to store the stabilizer.
So I finished turning the bud vase, actually I made two, and began to consider how to finish them.I knew the rotten wood is like a sponge.I’ve worked some punky wood, and just like end grain it’s always ready to suck the finish right out of the jar.In regular wood I usually put some 2 pound shellac on and the buff it off with the Beall system.I didn’t want to hit this with the polishing wheel as I was pretty sure it would disintegrate.I’ve been researching different ep...
I am in no way connected to Minwax. As a professional woodworker, I view their retail product line as not quite professional level, but quality nonetheless. I also allow that any retail product has the potential to be an effective coating to have around. I build vertical electric basses whose bodies are, generally, cherry and alder, and are about fourteen inches wide and thirty six inches long and two inches thick. The edges have a two grooves cut with a vee-groove/flush trim bit (an ho...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1693 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 97 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 92 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- Life as an Amateur Woodworker - 69 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1718 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- dbhost - 403 entries
- degoose - 397 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- mafe - 286 entries
- William - 258 entries
- shipwright - 231 entries
- Betsy - 228 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- stefang - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 203 entries
- robscastle - 196 entries
- Smitty_Cabinetshop - 190 entries
- Dave Rutan - 190 entries
- Rustic - 190 entries