So just after Christmas I decided to have a go at a carcass type project. I got carried away and bought a Makita track saw to help me break down sheet goods. So I went to my local diy shop (Wickes) and bought some of their ‘hardwood ply’, in reality its pretty rubbish stuff, but the timber yards were shut between Christmas and New Year, not to mention the fact that I wanted to play with my new toy. All in all this was a really quick project, I got all the joinery done in a few day...
I finally started my dedicated mitre saw station and as you can see it’s basically going to be 2 36” wide cabinets with drawers and 2 cabinet doors to each unit .. In the middle I’m going to put a shelf and frame to support the mitre saw and also make it flush to the top of the cabinets so I cut my 8’ lumber . The cabinets are made out of furniture grade poplar and its dimensions are 36” wide 40” tall and 24” deep.. I planing...
I had a eureka moment last night. How to get the false bottoms on the bins to slide in and out? I had envisioned two pieces of thin plywood or hardboard, sliding out through the sides, which allow all the collected Legos to fall out through the open bottom. I had devised a few different ways to achieve this goal, but all of them included little guide rails sandwiching the moving part. It was all very complicated and involved tiny pieces. Then it came to me: why not just cut the bottom o...
After a quick check on the wounded drawer to see how things were drying, I came to the conclusion that my repair work accomplished it’s goal. The drawer is nice and sturdy again after the glue. However, I’m a little concerned about the depth of the router cut. I may have to redo this one. I decided to shelve the drawers and move on with the other trickery needed to finish the top. I need to make the little bins on the wings that will collect Legos the kids scoop off the main play surfa...
Back in the shop and back on track after yesterday’s detour to make the shooting board. I put together the remaining 3 drawers and repainted the play area (the big blue thing). Here’s how it went down…The Drawers First up, I cut the side and front/back pieces from a length of poplar stock (1/4” x 3 1/2” x 36”), slapped ‘em on the shooting board and trued up every cut edge (and one factory edge that was off). It worked like a charm and within a few minutes, I had all the pieces for t...
So I took some time to think about how to get better results from my drawers (well…that sure sounded better in my head then on the screen) and came up with the idea to make a shooting board. If I start with pieces that are milled properly, perhaps my drawer will look better than the first one… I mulled this over today as I hit the freshly clear-coated legs and base with a piece of a brown paper bag. I discovered this trick on one of The Schwartz’s blogs from a few years ago when working wi...
Young woodworker here looking for some advice. I’m working on a 34” x 34” frame for squeegeeing film photographs after they have been developed in a darkroom. The design is fairly simple I’m using 5/4 white oak for the frame connected with finger joints and then cutting a dado in the middle of the pieces to allow for a piece of plywood and plexiglass to rest in. This will be inside a school and will be exposed (not submerged) to water for about half of the year. I am making this to replace a ...
Today I cut up the main play area surface (MDF). I knew I wanted to prime the base, so figured I’d cut the MDF first and get the fine dust mostly out of the air before priming. I had to use the same layout methods (and again told myself I need a table saw) and spent precious time marking and clamping before making a few cuts, but in the end, got a perfectly cut plank of MDF that will fill almost all the space inside the upper box. On the left and right, I also cut out 4” wide “wings” that ...
Today was a pretty productive day in that I got all the lower parts of the table ready for finishing, but my final output didn’t look much different than yesterday. To start, I flipped the completed bottom frame over a piece of 1/2” plywood and traced the outline. I then broke out the circular saw and using a straight piece of poplar plank, figured out the blade offset and clamped the straight edge down. I placed this whole thing on top of a sheet of 1 1/2” thick (I think) foam insulation ...
I need some wooden beads for upcoming projects.I have lots of scrap wood and decided to try making my own beads.This video is how I did it. Click here to watch my video. Thank youPaul
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