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Woodworking blog entries tagged with 'planing'

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Southern Yellow Pine Work Surface #5: Getting Close to Full Width

02-22-2015 02:53 PM by ruddhess | 0 comments »

I ended up gluing inside my apartment where it was warmer. Ice and snowoutside. It is wide enough now that it won’t fit inside the glue box anyway. All 12 boards glued up. I think that I will add 2 more to make it 21” wide.

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Southern Yellow Pine Work Surface #4: Glue Curing Box

02-17-2015 09:19 PM by ruddhess | 2 comments »

Here is what I did yesterday: made a long box to keep the wood and glue warm while curing. Everything I needed was laying close at hand – literally! I had four old closet doors that I used as shelves a long time ago that were standing in the corner. I had used a couple of them as a flat work place to start gluing up the boards for my slab. I found 8 little metal angle braces with screws that I had bought a while back and never used. It is 78” long (my 72” boards fit j...

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Southern Yellow Pine Work Surface #3: Glueing up pairs of boards and then glueing up quads

02-17-2015 02:44 AM by ruddhess | 2 comments »

This is the first two boards glued together the night before this picture. I have taken the bolts out and everything looks solid. Time will tell. This first one was probably the worst for glue coverage as I was in a hurry – it has been too long since I glued boards together. I keep thinking that if I didn’t hurry, the glue would set up and I’d have to do everything over again. But I think it will still be OK. I used plenty of glue on both sides and the only part I’...

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Southern Yellow Pine Work Surface #2: Drilling holes for bolts and all-threads

02-15-2015 05:21 AM by ruddhess | 0 comments »

Using some 3-1/2” bolts to glue up two boards at a time. It is easier to keep everything square and straight this way. Also there’s no rush just gluing two boards together. The holes are 5/8” so that when I get ready to glue up the 6 sets of paired laminations, I can use the 3/8’ threaded rod – hopefully the holes line up well enough.

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Southern Yellow Pine Work Surface #1: My first "benchtop"

02-13-2015 02:20 AM by ruddhess | 0 comments »

Beginning to make a Japanese style planing beam/board. 6 boards from Lowe’s – 2 X 10 X 12’s cut in half and staked up on my old sawhorses. I used a 1 X 2 “select” pine as a straight edge – screwed to the 2X with drywall screws as a guide for my circular saw. Set the depth to leave a wafer thin “bridge” on the very bottom so I didn’t cut into the board below. Worked very well. (Bit of a “mis-start” on the first board....

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View Paul Bucalo's profile (online now)

Woodworking on a Half-Shoestring #11: Making Shavings

10-18-2014 10:37 PM by Paul Bucalo | 4 comments »

Earlier this afternoon I started out with the notion I would get as much of the superstructure for the table saw done as time would allow for. The bottom of the base (seen earlier) is made entirely out of new lumber, which wasn’t my intention from the onset. I was getting ready to make a trip out to our local Lowe’s for more 2” x 4”s when I decided to use the reclaimed lumber in the dungeon. After I found a couple of boards with straight edges long enough to cut to ...

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View Lazy_K's profile

bench vice and starting out

04-21-2014 11:21 PM by Lazy_K | 1 comment »

Hi, one of the investments a beginner woodworker thinks they really need is a nice cast iron bench vice. Now, I’ve been doing this professionally since 1982. In @ 1994 I got a used /discarded slab of laminated rock maple with a vice on one corner. some school threw out several student benches with the vices on them. some local persons “salvaged” them from the dumpster. my truck may have been used and I got one…. I never use it.I had gotten used to by then a homemade v...

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View Don W's profile

dw- Plane notes from the field #5: A few tips on How to set a handplane.

02-10-2013 01:42 PM by Don W | 10 comments »

Writing a blog about How to set up a Hand Plane will take a series, because it really depends on what you are trying to do. In other words, a smoother will be different than a jack and so forth, but it even goes further than that. At what stage your planing with your smoother will make a difference also. So here is a few tips to get you started, and I’m assuming this is for a smoother, so adjust as needed. - Set the frog far enough ahead so when the blade just starts to cut, it wo...

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View RGtools's profile

Hand tool tips and tricks #5: Starting a Handplane.

02-05-2013 01:41 PM by RGtools | 12 comments »

There are a lot of things written about the use of hand planes about the pressure used when starting a the tool vs finishing a cut. Getting these pressure tactics down is essential to accurate planing, but once those are mastered try this. Next time you start your cut, skew the body of the plane a bit. What this does is cause the plane to start the cut with one pinpoint of the blade as opposed to it’s full width. The beginning of your cuts will feel and look smoother and you can ...

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View David Craig's profile

Digging the new bench

05-12-2012 05:40 AM by David Craig | 10 comments »

I had a couple days off so I got to spend a few early mornings jamming to 90s Alternative tunes and prepping some lumber for a few projects on the “to-do” list. A couple years ago, I picked up a couple oak tables destined for landfill. An amusing story really. I helped a friend with a 70s style, oak coffee table she picked up at an auction for a few bucks. I went outside and there was an identical table sitting by the dumpster. It was in better condition than the one she just pick...

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