Now that the front and back have been assembled, I’m on to making the sides and the shelves that will sit in dados cut into the sides. Today’s blog is getting thoses sides made and ready for the dado process. That means basic milling. So I start with rough lumber, layed out for the best match I think. I check the direction the grain is running by planing a bit on each piece. This will allow the grain to be running the same when the whole piece is glued up and, hopefully, make...
(Just thought I’d add the link to the install instructions here at the top.) Bought a Byrd Shelix cutterhead for my DeWalt DW735 planer a few months ago but hadn’t taken the time to install it until a few days ago. I’ve got one thing to say so far, I am impressed. In the shipping packaging, and the ease of installing it, and with it’s cutting performance. The installation instructions were well presented and well thought out, right down to the piece of plastic that ...
With the back panel released from pipe-clamp jail and kinda-sorta smoothed with a #4, time to get it ready for fitting to the back of the carcase. What I want to do is get this panel inset into a groove planed (yes, with the #48!) inside said carcase so it floats in place / can expand and contract its little heart out. The panel will be ‘tongued’ on all four sides, so in order to get the ‘un-tongued’ dimensions right I first had to clamp the carcase tight to get a ‘finished’ inside dimension ...
Hello everyone. I’ve noticed that a lot of you have a DW735 thickness planer like I do.I use the heck out of mine and it is a great machine. But, there was a design flaw in my opinion that needed to be addressed. The dust port is placed above the middle of the out-feed table, and the dust collector hose has to be tied back or hung up to keep it out of the way, unless you are blessed with a permanent attachment.I hung it or tied it for a long time until I came up with this solution.Wi...
I have a fully joined carcase with partitions for five drawers, but it’s only got two sides, a top and a bottom. ie: it needs a backside! Options I’ve thought about include a series of half-lap boards nailed into a rabbet at all four edges, and a floating frame and panel. Because one of these is necessarily more difficult to do than the other, you can likely guess which one I’ve chosen… I started work with material selection. For the frame I’ve used a pretty non-descript (re: crappy) piece...
OK, here’s another one… i’m waiting on a model number so i can look up the specifica on it. Figured all you LJ’s might know something about this planer and be able to give me some information as well…... So….. is it worth it???? http://rochester.craigslist.org/tls/2398889768.html
I was making great progress on the clock. The wedding is 17 weeks away. My wife commented that she thought it would be done in time today. I headed done to my shop. I’ve been working on the front frame and thought I might be gluing it up today. Here’s a look at the lower rail, nice tight joint. I needed to put the profile on the bottom of that rail. As you may remember from my last post, I am using a huge fortsner bit to establish the curve and then bandsawing out the waste...
After my joints broke since my last blog post. I decided to use the plans i had as a guide, and design my own cabinets. After a couple weeks of thinking about it here and there, getting some new wood from a real lumber yard and letting it dry out. This is what i came up with. all cabinets are 30 in. wide inside. So, 34” overall width. 1 of 2 small cabinet units. 1 of 2 large tower cabinet units. I am a little disappointed in how much flex or r...
Working on something for the wife, a shoe rack for the front room. She wanted to buy one and I needed a new project, so here we are. Just need to finish the top and doors and then I will need to decide on a finish. Any suggestions on a finish ? Thanks for stopping by.
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