In this entry I will cover the top construction for the nightstand. Before I get started I want to apologize for not having many pictures of the top construction. You may be asking “What’s the big deal about the top? It’s just a panel glue-up and edge routing…” Normally, I would say it’s not that big of a deal but since I am trying to match the style of existing furniture (at least in spirit) it was a little more complicated. The top is actually in t...
This one is a smoother with a 45 degree bed. About 10 1/2” long Curly maple, jatoba stripes and ipe sole. (I have half a plank of 1×4 ipe – what else am I going to use it for besides soles for planes?) And another cut-down LV wooden plane iron. Finish is tung oil and wax. The configuration of the stripes was inspired by a picture of a AC Cobra in racing trim. Not a typical stripe configuration for a Cobra, so it stuck out. This one loves making beautifully f...
This is a bevel-down low angle block, bedded at 37° This one was also an exercise in lamination. Cherry and walnut, with a white oak sole. Finish is Waterlox and wax. It darkened the cherry considerably (and the cherry has continued to darken all on its own), so the contrast isn’t what I was originally going for. Again, the glueup was done with UF glue. While the number of pieces would have been manageable with PVA, I didn’t feel like rushing. It took 3 separate glueups t...
This one was an exercise in lamination. 6 primary species of wood – western maple, red oak, sapele, cherry, birch and walnut. Two pieces of each species, each piece at a different thickness, and some random veneer thrown in between each primary wood piece, for a total of 23 layers. The sole is white oak. Glue is urea formaldehyde, so I could glue it up in one go. Didn’t think I could get it done with PVA. The bed is 45 degrees, and was my first double iron plane. I someho...
I use this one as a smoother for some woods. It is short-ish for a smoother at 8 1/2”, but does its job quite well. Has a nice weight to it in use – not too light and not too heavy. Feels very solid. Made from wenge, with beech stripes and an ipe sole. Finish is tung oil and wax The bed is 50 degrees and the iron is another of the LV wooden plane irons. I cut it down with a Dremel and about 10 of those tiny cutting wheels. —Mark Kornell, Kornell ...
Here’s a couple of pocket planes: The one on the left is made from walnut, the right is purpleheart and mahogany. Meant to carry around in an apron pocket for quick accessibility. They definitely show signs of banging around with all the other detritus in apron pockets… The irons came from Lee Valley, replacement irons for small planes. The iron in the walnut 7/8” wide and the other is 1” wide. As long as the irons are kept sharp, they work pretty well for putting quic...
I don’t remember the order I built the rest of the planes I’ve made, so they’ll appear in no particular order. 3/4” shoulder plane. Sapele body and two-piece walnut wedge. Waterlox finish. This pic is a bit harshly lit, but it shows off some subtle figure in the sapele. Instead of a 4-piece lamination, this was done in two pieces. I drilled out the hole for the mouth area, then cut off one cheek. Hollowed out the cavity for the iron and wedge. Fit the wedge and then glued the cheek ...
I wanted plane #3 to be another block plane, but I wanted it to be a different kind of block. By this point, I’d done a lot of reading about planes in general and plane-making, and some of it was starting to sink in. Low angle, bevel-up planes sounded like a good thing because of the versatility, so I hit on the idea of making one from wood. The Internet is a wonderful resource for finding information on just about any conceivable topic. Usually, there is too much information, re...
Conceptually, a plane is a fairly simple device. It holds some kind of cutter that can be passed over a piece of wood to effect a cut. To work well, it needs to hold the cutter securely, and may have fences, guides or stops to help control the path of the cut. And even those fences, guides and stops aren’t there to help with making the cut, just to ensure consistency. So that’s it. Hold the cutter securely. In a Krenov-style plane, there are a small number of pieces that factor...
My first experience with handplanes were two 70’s era Stanleys (the block with a red lever cap, and a Handyman smoother) I “rescued” from a drawer in my dad’s garage three years ago. He had a brief flirtation with woodworking around the time I was 5, and the planes had obviously been unused since. The climate here is pretty dry, so there was only minor surface rust to deal with. I cleaned them up, worked on the soles a bit, and without really knowing what I was doing, turned the smoother into...
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