In this video I build two business card holders for the desks of a friend. http://youtu.be/u3FiXXFPXOY
Almost got this box about sized up. Some tweaking at the corners, maybe. Time to add a bottom? Needs a groove made in the sides of the box, so A Plough plane to cut some 1/4” by 1/4” grooves. Plane just MIGHT be a tad older than me? I had a piece of pine scrap, almost the right sizes for the box. needed a rebate around the edges, though So, a Wards #78 set to take a bit of the top, er, bottom of the panel. Seems I had the panel a might too smooth and shiny. ...
I made this plane for the 2013 Plane Swap. It is also posted as a project, but I thought I’d give more details here. First, I draw up a plan. Fairly simple, but it helps me work out the shaping details and sort out any conflicts with the mouth opening. This plan shows a crosspin, but I changed my mind and went with the more traditional eared approach. It is still a laminated construction, with the ears being glued in after the fact. A bit of a challenge getting them ali...
SpokeshaveMade from the Lee Valley small shave kit. Beech body. Knives The outer ones are small carving knives. Jatoba on the left and african mahogany on the right. The middle is an ebony marking knife. The blades on the carving knives are HCS jigsaw blades, while the blade on the marking knife came from Grizzly. Chisel Plane Quite possibly the ugliest, crudest plane in my collection. Well, no. Definitely the ugliest and crudest. But it does what it needs to do. Mahoga...
I made this plane as a gift for a friend. He took a woodworking course to build a chair, and ran out of time. Hasn’t had any luck finding a shop to get some time in, so the pieces for the chair are sitting on a shelf in his apartment. I was hoping to inspire him to complete the project by giving him a tool he could use without needing a shop. We’ll see what happens. Jatoba body with beech stripe. Ipe sole. Tung oil and wax finish. 45 degree bed, Hock iron. I barely opened the mo...
Neither as long nor as wide as Derek Cohen's, but still pretty hefty: 24” long jointer, bedded at 45 degrees. The iron is a LV woodie, 2 3/8” wide. Beech body with ipe sole. The tote is cherry, knob is jatoba. Finish is tung oil. The knob is threaded in so I can remove it easily. Without the knob, I find it hard to get a good grip for planing or lifting it, so I just leave the knob on. I must admit that I’m not a hand plane purist. If I need to joint something in e...
This is another jatoba plane. Apart from sanding end grain, jatoba is a relatively easy wood to work with. Machines well, holds an edge and seems to be pretty stable. I’ve also not (yet) encountered any boards with reaction wood. Kind of smells like a wet dog when being cut. I like it for planes because it is dense – the added mass in a small plane really helps performance. No stripes this time, just jatoba and an ipe sole. The bed is a fairly steep 60 degrees, which releg...
Next up is a 50 degree block plane. The body is jatoba with an ipe sole. The stripe in the middle is ebony and beech. Iron is a Hock 1 1/2”. Finish is Waterlox and wax. Thanks to the jatoba and the Hock iron, this thing weighs more than some metal block planes. It fits very comfortably in the hand. Jatoba is extremely hard and dense. Sanding end grain is about the same as sanding hardened steel. That’s a bit of an exaggeration, but not by much. Forget about doin...
This one doesn’t see much use because it is fairly specialized. The bed angle is 60 degrees, highly useful in certain applications. Completely useless in most others. :-) That’s too bad, because it is a nice fit in the hand. It tends to be hard to adjust. Tapping the iron to advance is fine, but tapping the back of the plane is just as likely to either do nothing or loosen the wedge as it is to retract the iron. The applied shock when you tap it at the back doesn’t me...
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