I will start this blog the same way I started the one on making a Lazy Susan. Now before I get started on this little demonstration of how I do it, let me caution you on a couple things. IF you try anything like this, take the plate that your saw blade comes up through and close that hole completely up with a thin piece of wood. Make sure it is even with the top, with no gaps and no lips to catch the pieces. You want it smooth. Then with a “Hollow ground plywood blade” come up from the bot...
Updated 1/15/12 At this point we have a box body with corner splines.Our lid is still oversized, so we can stop here and just use it to make a traditional box,one where the lid sets on top.DO NOT CUT THE LID TO SIZE UNTIL YOU ARE SURE OF THE STYLE OF BOX YOU WANT TO MAKE! For some, this may be the best option. They may not have all the required tools or may feel their skills need a little more honing.Or, you could leapfrog over the next few stages and pick up the project again when we d...
Here is the last segment on my mobile workstation. Overall I’m very pleased with it, but I would definitely make some changes if I had to do it again (due mainly to my screw-ups, not a problem with the design). First, as many of you know a typical contractor saw has a large number of gaping holes that make dust collection difficult. I used some 1/8” hardboard and magnetic vent cover sheets to block most of the holes. The back’s attached with velcro so it can be removed...
Updated 1/15/12 We now have our box assembled and glued up. Depending on the temperature, let it dry for a couple of hours, or overnight to be safe.Take the tape off and clean up any dried glue. This is a good time to smooth up the bottom to get rid of any rocking.You can double stick sandpaper onto a very flat and firm surface and slide the bottom across that. The problem with this approach is that sheet sandpaper is way too small. You can stick down several sheets and if you go very s...
Well, now that I’m fairly comfortable with the layout and construction of the cabinet it was time to tear things apart and get some actual measurements and formulate a material list and plan of attack (much easier to tear virtual cabinets apart!). After saving the Sketchup plan as another file I start removing unnecessary and duplicate items and start putting-in some dimensions. The pictures should show most if not all of the dimensions I used, but I can’t say for sure since I...
Updated 1/16/12 This is the fun part! Its scary too! The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know. Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. But slow down Hot...
Updated 1/15/12 Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.I typically make the medallion about 1” to 1.5” smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion. We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do ...
This Week I show you how to make a folding out feed table for your table saw. This design was based after an article and plan found in a 2009 issue of Woodworker’s Journal Magazine. Originally the plan was designed for a Cabinet saw with a Biesemeyer Fence System, so I had to make some slight modifications for my Porter Cable Saw. In this 3 part video series I show you a step by step on building this project as well as talk about the modifications I had to make. The Article and plans ca...
(This post is based on a LumberJocks.com forum thread.) After completing my dust collection system installation, I turned to my air cleaner, the Delta 50-875. I had decided to install it just above my table saw—about 2/3rd’s of the way along the wall, where the intake would be in line with the front door and the outfeed inline with the ceiling mounted vent fan. After reading “Woodshop Dust Control” this seemed like the ideal placement and this location had the added be...
Updated 1/15/12 Regarding wood movement:Depending on the wood you use, where you live, and your own personal experience,y ou may want to allow more clearance.This is what works for me. I really dont allow for any movement at this stage. I know this sounds like trouble waiting to happen, but it works just fine for me. Even if we start off with a snug fit, we will still end up with a small gap around the perimeter. This is due to the final sanding and easing of the edges between lid and l...
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