Updated 1/16/12 This is the fun part! Its scary too! The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know. Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. But slow down Hot...
Updated 1/15/12 At this point we have a box body with corner splines.Our lid is still oversized, so we can stop here and just use it to make a traditional box,one where the lid sets on top.DO NOT CUT THE LID TO SIZE UNTIL YOU ARE SURE OF THE STYLE OF BOX YOU WANT TO MAKE! For some, this may be the best option. They may not have all the required tools or may feel their skills need a little more honing.Or, you could leapfrog over the next few stages and pick up the project again when we d...
i recently built a box for rivergirlto be given as a wedding present http://lumberjocks.com/projects/67292 as i had recently done a tutorialabout some design and cutting techniques http://lumberjocks.com/patron/blog/29227 that was fresh in my head and i used it for this box to make things easierrather than cut each part separatei started with some 5/4 black walnut and maple stock and double taped them together on edge and them cross cut them into blocks(no real size just...
Boxguy’s Spline Slot Cutting Jig Want to add corner splines like this?,, You need a jig like this!..This hard working (and dusty) jig is used on almost every box I make, and is quick and simple to build. It has a wide plywood board for a base, a long “trough” supported by 45 degree triangles cut from a 2X6 and a handle so you can pull it back to you. (I just made the handle out of a forking branch.) The long trough lets me use this for boxes that are large or smal...
In response to some questions about how this pattern is made… I’m not sure if this is the only method, but here’s how I did it. Here’s the original project I posted: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/53452 Hint: When you look at the board, long ways going left to right, every row is a different size, but every group of 2 rows are all the same size! Solution: First you rip strips like you would for a regular end grain board, but in a progression of widths from l...
Updated 1/15/12 Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.I typically make the medallion about 1” to 1.5” smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion. We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do ...
Here is the last segment on my mobile workstation. Overall I’m very pleased with it, but I would definitely make some changes if I had to do it again (due mainly to my screw-ups, not a problem with the design). First, as many of you know a typical contractor saw has a large number of gaping holes that make dust collection difficult. I used some 1/8” hardboard and magnetic vent cover sheets to block most of the holes. The back’s attached with velcro so it can be removed...
When I pulled this off of my cabinet, I did not expect so many would like to build these. Well, I took one apart so that we could make some notes – and then detail construction. Below: The marshmallow catapult in it’s finished form. As you can see below, the catapult concists of only 6 wooden parts & some miscellaneous hardware, all easy to build with handtools if need be. When we did this project with the scouts, we put it together as a kit that they could sand ...
Updated 1/15/12 Regarding wood movement:Depending on the wood you use, where you live, and your own personal experience,y ou may want to allow more clearance.This is what works for me. I really dont allow for any movement at this stage. I know this sounds like trouble waiting to happen, but it works just fine for me. Even if we start off with a snug fit, we will still end up with a small gap around the perimeter. This is due to the final sanding and easing of the edges between lid and l...
This is my first blog and I hope it will go over well. This sander was inspired by models on the Internet but mostly by Blake: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/7641 and by Bob: http://lumberjocks.com/Bob3418/blog. I would like to thank them both for their posts. Without them this project would have been very difficult to complete. Concept: My intentions are to make a 20” +/- wide drum sander that will easily switch from thickness to surface sanding. I would like to be able to reduce stoc...
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