LumberJocks

Woodworking blog entries tagged with 'pine'

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View andyboy's profile

4 drawer chest tutorial.....ish. Not every detail sorry.

01-29-2015 04:31 AM by andyboy | 2 comments »

http://youtu.be/coMvuls8aaY?list=UUBJ_un-58R1Au7CSKwVIv4w

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View emart's profile

so many cracks. complete money pit

01-27-2015 09:58 PM by emart | 4 comments »

I finally got all the cracks and rotten spots fixed on my customer’s table top. I had to buy about $80 worth of resin to fix it. this wood was so porous and crumbly that tape would not stick to it. it seemed to just suck down resin like it was a sponge. This is a before picture some of the cracks and cavities were so big i could fit my fingers in them some photos after I filled in the cracks and sanded it to level the lumps out. I will give it a final pour of resin once the un...

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View pjones46's profile

Finishing Info for the Woodworker #2: Wood Prep Before Finishing

01-20-2015 03:40 AM by pjones46 | 1 comment »

Wood prep before finishing The secret to perfect finish is proper sanding of your project. All surfaces should be clean and free from all dirt and oils. Prep sanding is done with progressively finer grits. On unfinished wood, prepare the surface by using medium grit paper first, and then progress to finer grades. With most raw woods, if you are hand sanding, start sanding in the direction of the grain using a #100-150 grit paper before staining and work up to #220 grit paper. You can make ...

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View GCM's profile

A non-plywood 4 drawer filing cabinet #2: A half scale prototype

01-15-2015 08:25 AM by GCM | 0 comments »

This is my half size prototype made entirely out of pallet wood (besides hardware).Finish is home made chalk paint with a wax finish (shabby chic) – the finish doesn’t photo very well but I am very happy with it, it came out the best I have been able to achieve so far. This size is perfect for DVDs etc. (I did a more thorough write up but the text disappear after I uploaded the pictures for some reason).

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View Tom Howbridge's profile

Trailer do up #2: installing mud Gaurds

01-13-2015 07:41 PM by Tom Howbridge | 0 comments »

In this video we cover fitting the mud guards and cover hooks, grinding the bolts holding the side panels and mud Guards in place down, Note: the cabling has now been enclosed with conduit. You can view a short and detailed video here

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View pjones46's profile

Finishing Info for the Woodworker #1: What are the differences between stains and dyes

01-09-2015 09:41 PM by pjones46 | 2 comments »

What are the differences between stains and dyes? Very simply put: With stains, the pigment tends to remain on the surface of the wood and lodge in the pores, while dyes penetrate deeply and color the wood from within. Dyes Dyes are colorants that are usually mixed in a carrier vehicle (solvents) such as mineral spirits, water or alcohol. The dyes used in woodworking are characterized as transparent, as they bring about color changes in wood without obscuring the figure. The molecul...

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View pjones46's profile

Finishing Process of Interest #1: Chemical Ebonizing

01-07-2015 01:36 PM by pjones46 | 4 comments »

A while back, I put together a set of links of random finishing topics which I posted in my blog, called Finishing Tips #5: Finishing tips #5. One of the links listed coved the topic of Chemical-Ebonizing as I saw an interest from some concerning the procedure, so this is the time to single out that process. This process does not use dye, ink or paint, and can be carried out quite easily. As a matter of formality follow proper safety precautions such as wearing safety glasses, hand prot...

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View pjones46's profile

Finishing Info for the Woodworker #3: Finishes and their Compatibility

01-07-2015 04:38 AM by pjones46 | 0 comments »

Almost any finishing product can be applied over any other as long as the “other finish” is dry and the product you’re brushing doesn’t dissolve and smudge the existing. For example: Let’s for arguments sake you are not using spray equipment and that you have made up and applied a water based PVA blotch controller as describe in my previous article Preventing Blotching Using A Wash Coat 1 to a cherry surface. You then apply a water-soluble dye for color and let it dry completely. At ...

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View pjones46's profile

Preventing Blotching Using A Wash Coat #2: Waterbourne Finish Coatings

01-06-2015 04:15 AM by pjones46 | 1 comment »

As previously mentioned in Preventing Blotching Using A Wash Coat #1, most any standard finish can be used as a wash coat. These are Lacquer (both waterborne and solvent type/nitrocellulose), polyurethane (both waterborne and oil based), Oil-based Varnish, and Shellac. The above being said, lets talk Waterbourne. It really makes no difference which you use waterborne lacquer, waterborne shellac or waterborne polyurethane since they all are simply water-borne acrylics—none are really lacque...

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View pjones46's profile

Preventing Blotching Using A Wash Coat #1: Finishing with Wash Coats

01-04-2015 03:10 AM by pjones46 | 2 comments »

I am starting to put together an article covering finishing and this will be part of the coverage but not just limited to preventing blotching as a wash coat will aid in a more consistent staining color. This will be updated as my thoughts are organized. This is only a small portion: A wash coat is a coat of thinned finish that’s applied to bare wood to partially seal the surface before a stain is applied. It reduces the amount of stain from soaking into the wood and causing blotching. ...

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